The Wellington Tour – London By Night

Recently, Victoria and I embarked on another of those musing, rambling, disjointed conversations we often have about London.

“We’d better figure out exactly what we want to do in London on the Tour so Patty will be able to start blocking out all the travel details,” I said to Victoria.

“What travel details?” she asked.

“Hotel rooms, motor coach and driver, meals, admissions. Like that.”

“Thank God we have Patty and Novel Explorations for all that. We can concentrate on all the fun stuff instead.”

“We should stay in either Victoria or Mayfair. That way, we’ll be in walking distance to everything.”

“Yeah,” Victoria agreed before staring off into the distance, no doubt dreaming of walking the streets of London again. I began thinking of London myself. In my mind’s eye, I walked down Buckingham Palace Road – the Royal Mews, the giftshop next door, down the sidewalk and round to the left in order to stare through the gates at Buckingham Palace. Sigh.

We sat in silence for a time until I finally said, “We have to take the Tour to see the Palace at night.”

“Definitely,” Victoria agreed. “But what happens if some of the people on our Tour have already seen the Palace?”

“How many times have you seen it?”

“Jeez, I don’t know. Lots.”

“And we still go back and gawk at it every time we’re there, right? Believe me, no one will complain about seeing the Palace at night.”

“Then we can toddle our way up to Apsley House and see that at night,” Victoria sighed.

“Then we can walk down Piccadilly to St. James’s Street and do all the Lions.”

Victoria gave me an odd look. “The lions are in Trafalgar Square.”

“Not those lions. The pubs. The Red Lion, the Golden Lion . . . . . “

“Oh, we’ve got to take them to the Golden Lion, it’s like stepping back in time. And if we do that, then we’ve got to walk down the street to Almack’s.”

“Definitely. We can tell the group about Wellington’s being refused admission because he was wearing boots.”

“I thought it was because he arrived after eleven o’clock.”

“Depends which version of the story you want to believe,” I said. “I can just see Wellington strolling through the Park to Almack’s. Can you picture it?”

“Walk? Wouldn’t he have ridden there?”

“Nah. Then he’d have to put his horse somewhere. Much faster and easier to walk. Think about it. He’d only have had to cross the road in front of Apsley House and then cut through Green Park diagonally and he’d have been in King Street.”

“He’d have had to cut through somewhere to get to St. James’s Street,” Victoria mused.

“He could easily have cut through the back of Spencer House.”

“Spencer House? Cut through Spencer House?”

“We’re talking about the Duke of Wellington here. Do you really think Earl Spencer was going to tell him that he couldn’t cut through his yard?”

In response to this, Victoria said, “If we’re going to go to King Street, then we might as well just walk down another block to St. James’s Palace.”

“I love seeing London by night,” I sighed.

“Yeah. The streets are empty, it’s quiet and you can actually imagine that it’s 1805 again.”

“Cobblestones.”

“Hmmm. Damp cobblestones,” Victoria said.

“Damp cobblestones shining in the lamplight. And it’s got to be the tiniest bit chilly.”

“Definitely. Not actually cold, though.”

“No,” I agreed, “not cold. Just nippy.”

“Just nippy enough for us to be able to drop into the Golden Lion and casually order a glass of port.”

“Ooooh, port.”

“So Wellington, no?” Victoria asked.

“Oporto,” I said, prompting both of us to stare off into the middle distance for the next few minutes.

“Have you ever been to Duke’s Hotel?” I finally asked.

“No. Why?”

“They’re supposed to have a fabulous bar. I’ve always meant to go, but time just gets away from me when I’m in London. We should stop in there for a drink.”

“What’s the Wellington connection to Duke’s?” Victoria asked.

“Er, it’s called Duke’s?”

“Yes, but not that Duke, is it?”

“I don’t think so, but it’s definitely a part of Wellington’s London. Not to mention that it’s in the same street as Spencer House, so Artie would definitely have known it. I think it was lodgings for wealthy bachelors back then. And Mrs. Delaney lived in the street, too.”

“Isn’t that where Domenico Angelo had his school?” Vicky asked.

“Who?”

“Angelo. The fencing master.”

“Ah. Could be. Google it,” I suggested.

Victoria Googled, using her tablet. “St. James’s Place. Let’s see . . . . Spencer House . . . . Duke’s Hotel . . . . Oh, God, listen to this, there’s a Blue Plaque in St. James’s Place for William Huskisson!”

Our William Huskisson?”

“Yes, our William Huskisson, the one who was run over by the train right in front of Wellington. England’s first railroad fatality.”

“Well that seals the deal then. We’re going. And we’ll drink a toast to him in the bar of Duke’s Hotel.”

“Oooh, this is such fun!”

“It is. And we’ve got the whole rest of the tour to flesh out. This is just about three hours of it, so far.”

“I can’t wait to go,” Victoria said wistfully.

“Don’t get too excited. We have almost an entire year to wait. Why did we plan it so far in the future? What were we thinking?”

“I guess we’re just gluttons for punishment.”

You are cordially invited to join us September 4-14, 2014!
Find Complete Itinerary and Details of the Wellington Tour Here

Victoria's Day in Cambridge

Several years ago, some friends and I spent two weeks in residence at Worcester College, Oxford, for a course on “English Country Houses.”  It was a marvelous experience, and it put me on a list of Oxford Alums asked every year or so for a contribution to the University.  Hmmm.

Worcester College, Oxford University

Nevertheless, I was anxious to see Cambridge, almost as good as studying there (NOT!).  After all, it’s the other half of Oxbridge, that most English of all mash-ups! So after two nights and one full day in London, we trotted off to King’s Cross Station for a train to Cambridge, a trip of just about an hour. I use the term “trotted” loosely.  Ed was limping from his sore foot, but he was game to proceed. 

Cambridge City Hotel
 

On arrival, we checked into the Cambridge City Hotel, right in the middle of the colleges, museums and shopping streets of this lively city.  Cambridge was full of talk about the impending Royal Birth — the first Prince or Princess of Cambridge in many a year.  Our taxi driver was one nay-sayer however.  She said she could not care less about the Royals.  But she admitted she was almost the only one in Cambridge who felt that way.

Atop the on-off bus

Our first gambit was to take the on-off bus around the city. It was another warm, sunny, even hot day, and I insisted on climbing the stairs to the open seats where I could see everything and listen on the earphones to the recorded commentary.  Ed muttered, but finally, one step at a time, hauled himself painfully to the top. Muttering.

Beautiful Views in every direction

Quaint and picturesque
 

King’s College Chapel


Eventually we arrived at the Fitzwilliam Museum, for which I had a definite yearning.  Ed sighed and followed me off the bus and into the building.  I promised to limit my wanderings and to keep an eye out for benches!

Fitzwilliam Museum
 
 
 
The Elegant Entrance Hall
Ed on one of the benches
A familiar Regency Portrait, of Nicolas-Pierre Tiolier, c. 1817
by French painter Francois-Edouard Picot (1786-1868)

 
Gallery Two
 
 
Gallery Three
 
 
I could have stayed here for days, but creature comforts beckoned and we had sighted Brown’s, a lovely restaurant almost directly across the street, so I bid the marvelous museum good bye and accompanied the suffering hubby to the watering-hole.   
 
 
 
Braised Pig’s Cheeks?
 
We  settled for something far less adventurous, but quite delicious.  And after a reasonable rest, we rode the bus around the town to return to our hotel.  Soon, I was ready to set off alone, but Ed gamely came along, almost as eager as I was to get a closer view of the colleges on foot through the central city streets which were mostly pedestrian-only zones.
No cars, but lots of bicycles to watch for
 
 
Punting on the Cam
 
 
A market in the central square
 
 
Great St. Mary’s Church, the center of Cambridge
 
 
Gonville and Caius College, est. 1348

 
Cam River swan and her teen-age brood
 
 
Trinity College, est. 1546
 
 
Trinity library, Sir Christopher Wren, architect
 
 
At some point in the above wanderings around the various colleges and shop-lined streets of Cambridge, Ed found a chair or a bench and some ease from his painful steps.  I don’t think I sat down until we returned to the hotel — at which point, I believe we both collapsed.
 
After all, tomorrow was another day, Scarlett, and we had another excursion — to see Houghton Revisited, the exhibition and estate of Houghton Hall.  Reports to come.
 
Houghton Hall, Norfolk

Video Wednesday

 
Watch the Duke of Bedford get dressed in 90 seconds
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The Duke of Connaught hunts tigers in the Indian jungle – 1921
 
 
 
 
 
Arundels welcome the Duke and Duchess of Norfolk home after their honeymoon – 1937
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
64 Year old Duchess of Bedford leaves in her famous Fokker (in which she flew to India and back) piloted by Captain Charles D. Barnard – 1930
 
 

A slideshow history of the Wellington Arch, built to commemorate the
Duke of Wellington’s victory over Napoleon – it boasts the largest bronze sculpture in Europe.

 

Please Join Us . . . An Invitation From Victoria

Victoria here.  As you know by now, Kristine and I have planned a Wellington Tour to England in September, 2014 that we hope will appeal to all our blog readers, Facebook friends, fellow authors and Regency, Georgian and Victorian enthusiasts. We have included an attractive mix of places — London, Brighton, Windsor…with the special, added attractions of Walmer Castle, Stratfield Saye, Basildon Park, Frogmore and Highclere Castle — aka Downton Abbey — all of which make us absolutely rabid to get underway.

We’ve managed to include a little bit of everything you love most about England — wonderful parks, elegant interiors, seaside jaunts, historic landmarks, a river cruise, royal residences, centuries old pubs and lots of historical gossip. I’ve been to all these places — with the exception of Highclere Castle.  And I am so eager to go back to all of them, not to mention seeing the real Downton Abbey.

I read this fascinating book about Almina, Countess of Carnarvon, whose Rothschild fortune saved the 5th Earl and Highclere Castle and also financed his Egyptian expeditions.  A selection of precious items from King Tut’s Tomb will be part of our tour of Highclere Castle.  And it’s worth reading even more about Almina, who led a rather scandalous life after her husband died.  So combine The Buccaneers, The Mummy’s Curse, and Café Society between the Wars …and multiply by 100.  It’s more fun than any of the capers of todays mindless starlets.

Furthermore, there is the garden and park at Highclere…which make only cameo appearances in DA.

We’ve left lots of time for our group to be able soak up the atmosphere and grounds at Walmer Castle, the Brighton Pavilion, Stratfield Saye and Windsor Castle. Kristine is determined to leave flower bouquets at the graves of Wellington and his Waterloo mount, the fabulously bad tempered Copenhagen. We’ll take you on pub crawls and strolls through the streets of London that are simply steeped in Regency through Victorian history – gentleman’s clubs, the homes of period personalities, shops and Royal landmarks.

Kristine in Jermyn Street with our close friend, the Beau. We’ll make plenty of time for you to have your photo taken with Brummell, as well.
Victoria trying to photograph Apsley House, despite the London traffic.  

In our excitement, Kristine and I have assembled a Pinterest board comprised of photos of the many places and items you’ll see on The Wellington Tour. Please visit – Click here.

In our previous tours, Kristine and I have had lots of fun — and excitement.  We had an encounter with  Highwaymen at Belvoir Castle – and I’m proud to tell you that we won!

 
We accompanied the Duke of Wellington to Waterloo and inspected the tents of his soldiers.  Really.  In Belgium. 
 

 
 
We’ve both  passed Buckingham Palace many times, though we haven’t had time for tea with Her Majesty yet. One of these days . . . . .
 
 

Of course, we’ve both made the pilgrimage to Apsley House every time we’re in London. We can’t wait to show you our favorite bits.

And while wandering down Pall Mall one day, we stood and wondered why these big torches burned all day.  We’ve yet to find out.  If you know, please leave a comment.

Royal Automobile Club, 89 Pall Mall
 
 
There are hundreds of nooks and crannies at Windsor Castle we have yet to investigate. And we long to get another glimpse of the Playing Fields of Eton.
 
 
Windsor Castle Gardens in former moat
 
 

And we have yet to meet the pelicans in St. James Park, those gigantic ones that never are around when we are. 

St. James Park

Or maybe we snoozed through their appearances.

 
 
We have so much we’re anxious to share with you and we hope that many of you can join us on this adventure – truly the trip of a lifetime.
 
 

 For Details on THE WELLINGTON TOUR, CLICK HERE.

FYI:  What Kristine and Victoria really look like when they’re in England.

 
Funny how much we resemble The Fullerton Sisters,
 as painted by Sir Thomas Lawrence, c. 1825

Victoria's Day One in London, Part Four

Poor Ed, his foot unbelievably painful, decided to spend the afternoon at the hotel, nursing his wounds.  I set off down Piccadilly just happy to be in London, listening to the noise of the traffic, the snatches of conversation in multiple languages from passers-by, and breathing the air, diesel fumes and all. I noted, however, that most of the buses are running on green fuels now, which should help.  Just add the lorries, if you please.

Piccadilly, celebrating the Diamond Jubilee of the Queen’s 1953 Coronation
 
I wandered along the street, stopping at a few favorite spots.  Fortnum and Mason always is worth a visit, if only for the amusing displays, not to mention the delicious aromas.
 
  
 
F and M Teacup
 
  
The Elegant Doorway of F and M
 
Displays in Fortnum and Mason
 
I browsed around and tempted myself with possible purchases, but passed in favor of having manageable weights for my suitcase.  Click here to order from home.
 
 
Hatchards, Piccadilly, Est. 1797
 
I admit I spent at least an hour or two in Hatchards, a place I adore.  Visit by clicking here.
 
 
Capital Ideas Table, with Louise Allen’s Walking Jane Austen’s London
 
I was very happy to find Regency author Louise Allen’s new book Walking Jane Austen’s London on sale.  I bought it, but bypassed a few others…again considering the weight of my luggage.  But browsing in a wonderful bookshop is always rewarding in itself.
 

 
St. James and its marketplace
 
More browsing here, a blend of small dealers in antiques and collectibles, books, and — sorry to say — junk.  Or make that junque, since it comes from such a lovely spot.  This little market is in the church courtyard almost every day…and there is a nice coffee shop as well.  And seats.  But then Ed and his sore foot were resting up at the hotel, I hoped.  And my feet were itching for more adventures.
 
 
Ready and Willing; thank you, Mephisto!
 
 
So I consulted a little list I’d made of places I wanted to see in London that had previously escaped my attention.  Aha!  The Foundling Museum. Why not?  Ed would never want to see all those little treasures the mother’s made to identify their babes if they could return someday.  But it was something I’d always meant to see.
 
 
Foundling Museum
 
A short tube ride brought me close to the Museum, which you can read about here.  Below is the medallion showing three little angels, a symbol of the Foundling Hospital.
 
 
 
 
The Foundling Hospital was established by Thomas Coram (c.1688-1751), a wealthy merchant who spent a great deal of time in the American colonies where he had many business and governmental interests.  In 1739, Coram secured a royal charter to build a home for the many abandoned children in the London streets.
 
 
The Girl’s Dining Room, 1773
 
 
Mothers often brought children they were unable to care for to the hospital and left tokens with them in the hope that someday they could be reunited. The tokens are often heart-breakingly simple, made from inexpensive materials but with a lot of love and hope.
 

 
 
Many prominent artists and musicians were benefactors of the Foundling hospital, including William Hogarth (1697-1764)..
 
 
Thomas Coram, by William Hogarth, ©The Foundling Museum 
 
 
Painting above fireplace by George Lambert (1700-1765)
 
 The Foundling Museum is located in one of the original Hospital

buildings and houses rooms used by the board members and other philanthropists. Opened in 2004, it cares for and exhibits the collection of the Foundling Hospital..

 
 
George Frideric Handel (1685-1759)
school of Thomas Hudson

The Gerald Coke Handel Collection of Handel memorabilia can be seen and studied at the Foundling Museum as well.  Handel’s benefit concert of The Messiah in 1750 was the first of a series which brought the sum of £7,000 (equivalent today to about £500,000) to the Hospital. Handel left a score of the work to the Hospital. On the top floor of the museum,  visitors can settle into comfortable chairs and listen to Handel’s works — and other musical selections — on earphones.
 
 
Rococo Court Room
 
I felt a little guilty sitting in total comfort listening to magnificent music while Ed nursed his sore foot. Eventually, I walked back to the hotel and found him happily ensconced on the bed watching the BBC News Channel, his favorite if CNN is not available. He was almost ready for dinner.
 
Next, a train trip to Cambridge