Sit back and enjoy black and white footage of some of England’s stately homes –
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The Wellington Tour – London By Night
Recently, Victoria and I embarked on another of those musing, rambling, disjointed conversations we often have about London.
“We’d better figure out exactly what we want to do in London on the Tour so Patty will be able to start blocking out all the travel details,” I said to Victoria.
“What travel details?” she asked.
“Hotel rooms, motor coach and driver, meals, admissions. Like that.”
“Thank God we have Patty and Novel Explorations for all that. We can concentrate on all the fun stuff instead.”
“We should stay in either Victoria or Mayfair. That way, we’ll be in walking distance to everything.”
“Yeah,” Victoria agreed before staring off into the distance, no doubt dreaming of walking the streets of London again. I began thinking of London myself. In my mind’s eye, I walked down Buckingham Palace Road – the Royal Mews, the giftshop next door, down the sidewalk and round to the left in order to stare through the gates at Buckingham Palace. Sigh.
We sat in silence for a time until I finally said, “We have to take the Tour to see the Palace at night.”
“Definitely,” Victoria agreed. “But what happens if some of the people on our Tour have already seen the Palace?”
“How many times have you seen it?”
“Jeez, I don’t know. Lots.”
“And we still go back and gawk at it every time we’re there, right? Believe me, no one will complain about seeing the Palace at night.”
“Then we can toddle our way up to Apsley House and see that at night,” Victoria sighed.
“Then we can walk down Piccadilly to St. James’s Street and do all the Lions.”
Victoria gave me an odd look. “The lions are in Trafalgar Square.”
“Not those lions. The pubs. The Red Lion, the Golden Lion . . . . . “
“Oh, we’ve got to take them to the Golden Lion, it’s like stepping back in time. And if we do that, then we’ve got to walk down the street to Almack’s.”
“Definitely. We can tell the group about Wellington’s being refused admission because he was wearing boots.”
“I thought it was because he arrived after eleven o’clock.”
“Depends which version of the story you want to believe,” I said. “I can just see Wellington strolling through the Park to Almack’s. Can you picture it?”
“Walk? Wouldn’t he have ridden there?”
“Nah. Then he’d have to put his horse somewhere. Much faster and easier to walk. Think about it. He’d only have had to cross the road in front of Apsley House and then cut through Green Park diagonally and he’d have been in King Street.”
“He’d have had to cut through somewhere to get to St. James’s Street,” Victoria mused.
“He could easily have cut through the back of Spencer House.”
“Spencer House? Cut through Spencer House?”
“We’re talking about the Duke of Wellington here. Do you really think Earl Spencer was going to tell him that he couldn’t cut through his yard?”
In response to this, Victoria said, “If we’re going to go to King Street, then we might as well just walk down another block to St. James’s Palace.”
“I love seeing London by night,” I sighed.
“Yeah. The streets are empty, it’s quiet and you can actually imagine that it’s 1805 again.”
“Cobblestones.”
“Hmmm. Damp cobblestones,” Victoria said.
“Damp cobblestones shining in the lamplight. And it’s got to be the tiniest bit chilly.”
“Definitely. Not actually cold, though.”
“No,” I agreed, “not cold. Just nippy.”
“Just nippy enough for us to be able to drop into the Golden Lion and casually order a glass of port.”
“Ooooh, port.”
“So Wellington, no?” Victoria asked.
“Oporto,” I said, prompting both of us to stare off into the middle distance for the next few minutes.
“Have you ever been to Duke’s Hotel?” I finally asked.
“No. Why?”
“They’re supposed to have a fabulous bar. I’ve always meant to go, but time just gets away from me when I’m in London. We should stop in there for a drink.”
“What’s the Wellington connection to Duke’s?” Victoria asked.
“Er, it’s called Duke’s?”
“Yes, but not that Duke, is it?”
“I don’t think so, but it’s definitely a part of Wellington’s London. Not to mention that it’s in the same street as Spencer House, so Artie would definitely have known it. I think it was lodgings for wealthy bachelors back then. And Mrs. Delaney lived in the street, too.”
“Isn’t that where Domenico Angelo had his school?” Vicky asked.
“Who?”
“Angelo. The fencing master.”
“Ah. Could be. Google it,” I suggested.
Victoria Googled, using her tablet. “St. James’s Place. Let’s see . . . . Spencer House . . . . Duke’s Hotel . . . . Oh, God, listen to this, there’s a Blue Plaque in St. James’s Place for William Huskisson!”
“Our William Huskisson?”
“Yes, our William Huskisson, the one who was run over by the train right in front of Wellington. England’s first railroad fatality.”
“Well that seals the deal then. We’re going. And we’ll drink a toast to him in the bar of Duke’s Hotel.”
“Oooh, this is such fun!”
“It is. And we’ve got the whole rest of the tour to flesh out. This is just about three hours of it, so far.”
“I can’t wait to go,” Victoria said wistfully.
“Don’t get too excited. We have almost an entire year to wait. Why did we plan it so far in the future? What were we thinking?”
“I guess we’re just gluttons for punishment.”
Victoria's Day in Cambridge
Several years ago, some friends and I spent two weeks in residence at Worcester College, Oxford, for a course on “English Country Houses.” It was a marvelous experience, and it put me on a list of Oxford Alums asked every year or so for a contribution to the University. Hmmm.
Nevertheless, I was anxious to see Cambridge, almost as good as studying there (NOT!). After all, it’s the other half of Oxbridge, that most English of all mash-ups! So after two nights and one full day in London, we trotted off to King’s Cross Station for a train to Cambridge, a trip of just about an hour. I use the term “trotted” loosely. Ed was limping from his sore foot, but he was game to proceed.
On arrival, we checked into the Cambridge City Hotel, right in the middle of the colleges, museums and shopping streets of this lively city. Cambridge was full of talk about the impending Royal Birth — the first Prince or Princess of Cambridge in many a year. Our taxi driver was one nay-sayer however. She said she could not care less about the Royals. But she admitted she was almost the only one in Cambridge who felt that way.
Our first gambit was to take the on-off bus around the city. It was another warm, sunny, even hot day, and I insisted on climbing the stairs to the open seats where I could see everything and listen on the earphones to the recorded commentary. Ed muttered, but finally, one step at a time, hauled himself painfully to the top. Muttering.
Eventually we arrived at the Fitzwilliam Museum, for which I had a definite yearning. Ed sighed and followed me off the bus and into the building. I promised to limit my wanderings and to keep an eye out for benches!
Video Wednesday
A slideshow history of the Wellington Arch, built to commemorate the
Duke of Wellington’s victory over Napoleon – it boasts the largest bronze sculpture in Europe.
Please Join Us . . . An Invitation From Victoria
Victoria here. As you know by now, Kristine and I have planned a Wellington Tour to England in September, 2014 that we hope will appeal to all our blog readers, Facebook friends, fellow authors and Regency, Georgian and Victorian enthusiasts. We have included an attractive mix of places — London, Brighton, Windsor…with the special, added attractions of Walmer Castle, Stratfield Saye, Basildon Park, Frogmore and Highclere Castle — aka Downton Abbey — all of which make us absolutely rabid to get underway.
We’ve managed to include a little bit of everything you love most about England — wonderful parks, elegant interiors, seaside jaunts, historic landmarks, a river cruise, royal residences, centuries old pubs and lots of historical gossip. I’ve been to all these places — with the exception of Highclere Castle. And I am so eager to go back to all of them, not to mention seeing the real Downton Abbey.
I read this fascinating book about Almina, Countess of Carnarvon, whose Rothschild fortune saved the 5th Earl and Highclere Castle and also financed his Egyptian expeditions. A selection of precious items from King Tut’s Tomb will be part of our tour of Highclere Castle. And it’s worth reading even more about Almina, who led a rather scandalous life after her husband died. So combine The Buccaneers, The Mummy’s Curse, and Café Society between the Wars …and multiply by 100. It’s more fun than any of the capers of todays mindless starlets.
Furthermore, there is the garden and park at Highclere…which make only cameo appearances in DA.
We’ve left lots of time for our group to be able soak up the atmosphere and grounds at Walmer Castle, the Brighton Pavilion, Stratfield Saye and Windsor Castle. Kristine is determined to leave flower bouquets at the graves of Wellington and his Waterloo mount, the fabulously bad tempered Copenhagen. We’ll take you on pub crawls and strolls through the streets of London that are simply steeped in Regency through Victorian history – gentleman’s clubs, the homes of period personalities, shops and Royal landmarks.
In our excitement, Kristine and I have assembled a Pinterest board comprised of photos of the many places and items you’ll see on The Wellington Tour. Please visit – Click here.
In our previous tours, Kristine and I have had lots of fun — and excitement. We had an encounter with Highwaymen at Belvoir Castle – and I’m proud to tell you that we won!
Of course, we’ve both made the pilgrimage to Apsley House every time we’re in London. We can’t wait to show you our favorite bits.
And while wandering down Pall Mall one day, we stood and wondered why these big torches burned all day. We’ve yet to find out. If you know, please leave a comment.
And we have yet to meet the pelicans in St. James Park, those gigantic ones that never are around when we are.
Or maybe we snoozed through their appearances.
For Details on THE WELLINGTON TOUR, CLICK HERE.
























