Sit back and enjoy black and white footage of some of England’s stately homes –
Category: Kristine Hughes
The Wellington Tour – London By Night
Recently, Victoria and I embarked on another of those musing, rambling, disjointed conversations we often have about London.
“We’d better figure out exactly what we want to do in London on the Tour so Patty will be able to start blocking out all the travel details,” I said to Victoria.
“What travel details?” she asked.
“Hotel rooms, motor coach and driver, meals, admissions. Like that.”
“Thank God we have Patty and Novel Explorations for all that. We can concentrate on all the fun stuff instead.”
“We should stay in either Victoria or Mayfair. That way, we’ll be in walking distance to everything.”
“Yeah,” Victoria agreed before staring off into the distance, no doubt dreaming of walking the streets of London again. I began thinking of London myself. In my mind’s eye, I walked down Buckingham Palace Road – the Royal Mews, the giftshop next door, down the sidewalk and round to the left in order to stare through the gates at Buckingham Palace. Sigh.
We sat in silence for a time until I finally said, “We have to take the Tour to see the Palace at night.”
“Definitely,” Victoria agreed. “But what happens if some of the people on our Tour have already seen the Palace?”
“How many times have you seen it?”
“Jeez, I don’t know. Lots.”
“And we still go back and gawk at it every time we’re there, right? Believe me, no one will complain about seeing the Palace at night.”
“Then we can toddle our way up to Apsley House and see that at night,” Victoria sighed.
“Then we can walk down Piccadilly to St. James’s Street and do all the Lions.”
Victoria gave me an odd look. “The lions are in Trafalgar Square.”
“Not those lions. The pubs. The Red Lion, the Golden Lion . . . . . “
“Oh, we’ve got to take them to the Golden Lion, it’s like stepping back in time. And if we do that, then we’ve got to walk down the street to Almack’s.”
“Definitely. We can tell the group about Wellington’s being refused admission because he was wearing boots.”
“I thought it was because he arrived after eleven o’clock.”
“Depends which version of the story you want to believe,” I said. “I can just see Wellington strolling through the Park to Almack’s. Can you picture it?”
“Walk? Wouldn’t he have ridden there?”
“Nah. Then he’d have to put his horse somewhere. Much faster and easier to walk. Think about it. He’d only have had to cross the road in front of Apsley House and then cut through Green Park diagonally and he’d have been in King Street.”
“He’d have had to cut through somewhere to get to St. James’s Street,” Victoria mused.
“He could easily have cut through the back of Spencer House.”
“Spencer House? Cut through Spencer House?”
“We’re talking about the Duke of Wellington here. Do you really think Earl Spencer was going to tell him that he couldn’t cut through his yard?”
In response to this, Victoria said, “If we’re going to go to King Street, then we might as well just walk down another block to St. James’s Palace.”
“I love seeing London by night,” I sighed.
“Yeah. The streets are empty, it’s quiet and you can actually imagine that it’s 1805 again.”
“Cobblestones.”
“Hmmm. Damp cobblestones,” Victoria said.
“Damp cobblestones shining in the lamplight. And it’s got to be the tiniest bit chilly.”
“Definitely. Not actually cold, though.”
“No,” I agreed, “not cold. Just nippy.”
“Just nippy enough for us to be able to drop into the Golden Lion and casually order a glass of port.”
“Ooooh, port.”
“So Wellington, no?” Victoria asked.
“Oporto,” I said, prompting both of us to stare off into the middle distance for the next few minutes.
“Have you ever been to Duke’s Hotel?” I finally asked.
“No. Why?”
“They’re supposed to have a fabulous bar. I’ve always meant to go, but time just gets away from me when I’m in London. We should stop in there for a drink.”
“What’s the Wellington connection to Duke’s?” Victoria asked.
“Er, it’s called Duke’s?”
“Yes, but not that Duke, is it?”
“I don’t think so, but it’s definitely a part of Wellington’s London. Not to mention that it’s in the same street as Spencer House, so Artie would definitely have known it. I think it was lodgings for wealthy bachelors back then. And Mrs. Delaney lived in the street, too.”
“Isn’t that where Domenico Angelo had his school?” Vicky asked.
“Who?”
“Angelo. The fencing master.”
“Ah. Could be. Google it,” I suggested.
Victoria Googled, using her tablet. “St. James’s Place. Let’s see . . . . Spencer House . . . . Duke’s Hotel . . . . Oh, God, listen to this, there’s a Blue Plaque in St. James’s Place for William Huskisson!”
“Our William Huskisson?”
“Yes, our William Huskisson, the one who was run over by the train right in front of Wellington. England’s first railroad fatality.”
“Well that seals the deal then. We’re going. And we’ll drink a toast to him in the bar of Duke’s Hotel.”
“Oooh, this is such fun!”
“It is. And we’ve got the whole rest of the tour to flesh out. This is just about three hours of it, so far.”
“I can’t wait to go,” Victoria said wistfully.
“Don’t get too excited. We have almost an entire year to wait. Why did we plan it so far in the future? What were we thinking?”
“I guess we’re just gluttons for punishment.”
Video Wednesday
A slideshow history of the Wellington Arch, built to commemorate the
Duke of Wellington’s victory over Napoleon – it boasts the largest bronze sculpture in Europe.
Video Wednesday
Charlotte Mosley’s hour long interview with Deborah, Duchess of Devonshire for the Frick Collection
A Couple In England – The End
And so Hubby and I arrived at the end of our journey. We decided to have our last English meal at the Three Tuns, another of the historic pubs of Windsor that happens to be located directly behind the Guildhall. I wanted my last meal of bangers of mash. And enough rum to drown my sorrows.
“Are you sad about going home tomorrow?” Hubby asked once we were seated.
“I’m home now. I’m sad about going back to Florida.”
“Most people in England would love to trade places with you,” Hubby commented.
“Mad dogs and Englishmen,” I replied.
“Huh?”
“Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun,” I said, referring to our sub tropic Florida weather. Humid doesn’t begin to cover it. I expect that Gunga Din and Wellington felt the same about India.
“The grass is always greener,” Hubby went on.
“How droll. Actually, the grass does happen to be greener in England, where it isn’t scorched by the blazing midday sun on a constant basis.”
“Droll?”
I gave Hubby a scathing look and he dropped it. “What time do we leave tomorrow?” he asked instead.
Oh boy. Here we go. “About tomorrow . . . . “
Now it was Hubby’s turn to glare. “C’mon, out with it.”
I ordered another round from a passing waiter and forged ahead. “After we fly into Newark, we have a four hour layover before our three hour flight to Florida.”
“What?”
“Ssshhhh! Don’t get excited.”
“Excited? Is that what you think I am? Excited? Because I’m telling you right now, excited I’m not. Why would you do that to me?”
“It was either that or wait till the next day to fly home.”
“For Christ’s sake, why didn’t you wait till the next day?”
“I didn’t know which option to choose and then I decided that you’d have blown a fuse no matter which way I went, so I opted for the layover. But it’s okay because Brooke is going to come to the airport to pick us up. We’ll all go out to eat, then we’ll go back to her house for a while and then she’ll bring us back to the airport. So we won’t be stuck at the terminal for four hours.”
This mollified him a bit. A very little bit.
“Listen, the next time you plan a trip to England for us, do it in the summer, will ya? And don’t include London on the itinerary. London is too crazy for me. I liked Bath and I like Windsor. Think small. And when you come over here to look for houses, you’re coming by yourself. I’m not traipsing all over England looking at houses. Understand?”
I kept my counsel, wisely deciding that now was not the time to tell Hubby that when a man was tired of London, he was tired of life.
“Alright, then, I’ll just bring Vicky with me.”
“And that’s another thing,” Hubby went on. “Don’t think I haven’t noticed that Ed and I don’t figure in the plans that you and Vicky have for living in England. I’m just hoping you two plan on letting us die natural deaths first.”
“Ideally you and Ed would be dead, granted, but I’ve got everything planned out in case you’re still alive when I move here.”
“Oh, brother. Go on. I can’t wait to hear this.”
“When we move to England, you’re going to raise chickens.”
“What?”
“I’ll take care of the sheep and you’ll raise chickens.”
“Are you nuts? Why would I raise chickens?”
“So that you can barter the eggs, of course. Just think about it, you’ll put on your tweed coat and make your way out every day to collect the eggs. Then you’ll take your basket and you’ll toddle your way down to the pub and trade your eggs for pints of beer. `Here are six fresh eggs in exchange for a pint of your best, my good man.’ I can hear you now.”
“It’s the twenty-first century. No one barters any more.”
“They do in England.”
“You’re nuts. You do realize that, don’t you? Explain to me why I wouldn’t just get in the car, drive to the pub and pay money for a pint of beer. You know, the way normal people do.”
“See, this is why you don’t figure into my plans for living in England. If I asked Vicky to collect the eggs and trade them in at the pub, she’d do it without an argument.”
“Because she’s as nuts as you are, that’s why. You’ll be known as the two crazy American women.”
“Widows.”
“Huh?”
“We’ll be known as the two crazy American widows.”
“Listen, all joking aside, dead or alive, I am not raising chickens. Got it?”
Our dinners arrived and we ate silently for a while. Then I asked, “Did you enjoy anything at all about the trip?”
Hubby looked at me. “Sure. Sure I did, Hon. I enjoyed all the parts that weren’t London, that didn’t involve walking, or rain or being sick.”
As near as I could figure, that left the plane ride over. And Burger and Lobster. And Café Nero.
“I wish you loved England as much as I do.”
“I don’t have to love England. I love you and that’s all that matters.”
I smiled at him as we joined hands across the table. “Next time, I promise we’ll go somewhere warm.”
“It doesn’t matter, as long as we’re together.”
“You mean that?”
“I do, my good man. Now tell me what in the Hell you think you know about raising sheep.”






















