Breathlessly Home from England

You were, perhaps, thinking you’d read today about Kristine’s trip to Oatlands, home of Frederica, Duchess of York.  But there will be a wee postponement before you hear about her visit with Hester Davenport (and the almost-healthy Hubby).  Now, don’t panic, the cholera has not recurred, but Kristine is taking a bit of a break to celebrate a family birthday.

So, Victoria here, breathlessly just back from England (and the Czech Republic and Germany) with her very own long-suffering hubby.  Here he is enjoying the treasures of the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge.

We did not have anything like the trials and tribulations of Kristine and Greg last winter —  not even a moment of stomach upset.  HOWEVER…our feet took a beating, and Ed was almost hobbling by the end of the three weeks-plus we were in Europe. Blisters.

I will report in detail later, after I’ve rested up, and Kristine has completed her saga. But in the meantime, here’s a quick rundown of what Ed and I did on our summer holiday.

Prague, Czech Republic
 
We arrived in Prague, our first visit there,  and spent a few days enjoying the beauties of that ancient city. Lots of walking, which is always the best way to see a city.  Lots of hills, cobblestones and stairs.  We were up to it.  At first.
 
Ed and I both enjoyed the unexpected display of photographs, shoes and gowns of Marilyn Monroe at the Prague Castle.  She was honored as an icon of modern beauty, just as the many Venus portraits, nymphs and goddess were to those who decorated the Castle’s many chambers several centuries ago. We also took in the usual tourist views, as well as a special luncheon and concert at the Lobkowicz Palace. Lots of walking. More cobblestones.  Long hills.
 
 
 
 
We embarked on a cruise on the Elbe River with Viking Cruises aboard the Clara Schumann.  I was glad to see that Clara was the honored one.  Most might think of her husband, Robert Schumann, the composer, but the fact is that Clara Wieck Schumann (1819-1896) was much more famous in her own day as a pianist, performer, composer and as a muse for both her husband and Johannes Brahms. 
 
 
MS Clara Schumann on the Elbe
 
 
We were a little concerned in the weeks leading up to our cruise since there were serious floods on the Elbe, Danube, and elsewhere in Central Europe.  Luckily the flood had ebbed by the time we started out, but we had to make a few minor adjustments along the way due to damage — and we saw some evidence of it, though nothing like the horrendous tragedy of 2002.
 
The Bohemian Mountains
 
We were surprised at the majestic scenery of the area on the Czech-German border with its stone formations, once a must for visiting by people such as the English painter J.M.W. Turner and author Mary Shelley. We walked everywhere, if sometimes limping!
 
After many interesting stops, about which I will write soon — including Dresden, Meissen, etc., we left the ship and went to Potsdam and then Berlin.  Dresden is remarkable.  By now, the cobblestones were anything but quaint. Feet were aching. Required large infusions of wine.
 
 
 
Dresden Opera
 
 
Berlin is amazing. A forest of cranes and derricks, construction everywhere, and almost every teenager in Europe on hand.  Except the tens of thousands who were in London! 
 
 
 Ed stands at remains of the Wall, or a touristy replica — opinions varied!
 
 
Lots of walking in Berlin, through museums with very hard marble floors, more cobblestones, treks to see this and that, all wonderful but far apart.  Feet suffering. Swollen. Shoes now too tight. Limping. After a few hectic days in crowded, lively Berlin, we flew to Heathrow. 

 
View from our Hotel in Euston Road
 
 
We were at the London Pullman St. Pancras Hotel, just west of the British Library, with the St. Pancras Hotel/Station, recently refurbished in the background. We had two nights there, then went by train to  Cambridge, then to Norfolk.  Did I say we walked a lot?  Uneven paving stones?  Blisters?
 
  
 
We stayed here, at the Victoria, in Holkham Village, while we visited two stately homes, Houghton Hall and Holkham Hall, about which I promise to report in considerable detail.
 
 
 
 
At the Bygones Museum, Holkham, Ed — a former tv newsman — admired an old television camera, not so long ago state-of-the-art, now a museum piece.  We returned to London for a few days of more touring.  By now, I felt like we had almost conquered Everest, both in distances hiked and elevations — well, almost.
 
 

The view from the top of the Wellington Arch: The London Eye and the Shard. It was unusually warm (and very sunny) for our entire visit.  The umbrellas, sweaters, jackets, and rain ponchos we packed were unworn.  Could have taken more shoes.  Note to self: Next time pack a pair at least one size larger for wearing after feet have already suffered.
 
 
The Treasures I brought home! Along with lots of pics and many memories.
 
I have many adventures to report, but I have to get over some jet lag and get Hubby back on his feet before I get too detailed!  Kristine will finish her story before I start on mine!  And how come that Royal Baby didn’t arrive while I was there?  Darn.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The Wellington Connection – Chad & Jeremy

You may recall that when Hubby and I were in London recently we did the Hop On, Hop Off bus tour, during which I learned that Jeremy Clyde, one half of the musical duo Chad and Jeremy, was related to the Duke of Wellington. This was news to me, so of course I had to do further research on the subject. It turns out that Jeremy’s mother is Lady Elizabeth Clyde (b. 1918), the daughter of Gerald Wellesley, 7th Duke of Wellington, and Dorothy Violet Ashton, and is thus a great-great-granddaughter of Arthur Wellesley, 1st Duke of Wellington. Jeremy Clyde, born Michael Thomas Jeremy Clyde, is an actor as well as a musician and made his first public appearance as a pageboy to his grandfather, the Duke of Wellington, at the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom in 1953.

During the 1960s, he was one half of the folk duo Chad and Jeremy, who had little success in the UK but were an object of interest to American audiences. He has enjoyed a long television acting career, and continues to appear regularly on the tube, usually playing upper-middle class or aristocratic characters. Most recently, Jeremy appeared in Season 2, Episode 1 of Downton Abbey playing, coincidentally, a military general. Another coincidence, or not, is the uncanny resemblance Jeremy has to his ancestor, the first Duke of Wellington.

To learn more about Chad and Jeremy, the backstory of their partnership and what they’re doing now, you can visit their website here.

A Couple In England – Day 8 – Part 3

When I got back to our room at the Castle Hotel, I was shocked to find that Hubby had unpacked our bags and had actually hung some of our clothes in the closet.

“Feeling better?” I asked. Hubby pointed to a low table that sat between two chairs by the window. On it were our trusty bottle of rum, a bottle of Coke and an ice bucket. I made myself a drink and took a long, lovely pull.

“Yummay.”

“How’s Hester?”

“Good. She couldn’t believe how bad I looked. I can’t wait till she gets a load of you.”

“At least I don’t feel like I’m going die. I don’t feel great, but I really think I might live.”

We sipped our drinks in silence for a while and then I brought up the subject of food.

“Are you hungry?”

“Yeah, we haven’t eaten anything all day. Come to think of it, neither of us has eaten much of anything for a long time. I don’t want anything fancy shmancy, Hon. I’m not up for that.”

“Fancy shmancy? You’re joking, right? I was thinking more like going straight across the road to the pub.”

“There’s a pub across the street?” Hubby looked out the window.

“Two. You can’t see them because they’re directly behind the Guildhall.”

So we finished our drinks, bundled up and headed out.

I pointed to the Guildhall as we passed. “That’s where Chuck and Camilla were married.”

“There? Why didn’t they get married at the Castle around the corner? Boy, that must have been a dark day for you, Hon. Did you cry?”

“I contained myself. But it really should have been me who married Chuck.”

“No kidding. Think of the jewels you’re missing out on.”

“Jewels? I could care less about the jewels. What I want is the key to the Royal Archives. And to every other archive in the land that’s usually off limits. One of the first things I’d have done would’ve been to call Stratfield Saye and say `It’s me. Chuck’s wife. Let me in and lead me to the personal papers.’ Here we go, the Carpenter’s Arms.”

Because it was relatively early, we had the whole place to ourselves. I ordered the bangers and mash and I can’t for the life of me remember what Hubby had – and neither can he. Suffice it to say that we ordered another round of drinks and then settled down to wait for the food.

“We’re meeting Hester in the car park at the hotel tomorrow morning and she’s going to drive us to Oatlands. All you have to do is get into the car. No trains or cabs or anything else resembling work.”

“What’s Oatlands?”

“It was Freddy’s house.”

“Freddy? Who’s Freddy? Is he related to the Duke of Wellington? Is that the guy with the fake leg?”

“Freddy was a woman. Frederica, Duchess of York.”

“Who?”

“Remember the Duke of York’s column in London?”

“The guy with the mistress?”

“Yes. Freddy was his wife.”

“So?”

Sigh. “She was a Prussian princess and was rather eccentric and homely, but she was incredibly kind. Some of the greatest people of the age adored Freddy. When Tom Sheridan’s wife was gravely ill, Freddy invited her to Oatland’s to rest and recuperate. And then there was Prince Leopold.”

“Who?”

“Leopold. Princess Charlotte’s widower. He went to pieces when Charlotte died and Freddy was very patient with him and had him at Oatlands with her in order take his mind off things.” Our food arrived and we began to eat.

“And of course there was Beau Brummell.”

“Did you know there was a singing group called the Beau Brummells?”

I stared at Hubby. “Yes.”

“Laugh, laugh. That was the name of their hit. You know it? Laugh, laugh, la la la la. Da da de da laugh, laugh . . . Remember?”

“Can’t say that I do.” It was obvious that there was no use my going on about the life and times of Freddy, but I felt honour bound to mention that after we’d seen Oatlands we’d be going on the Hampton Court.

“And then after Oatlands we’re going to Hampton Court.”

“What’s that?”

I smiled. “Oh, trust me. You’re going to love it.”

“I bet.”

Day Nine Coming Soon!

A Pinterest Post: The Libby Hall Dog Photo Collection

 
 

If you’ve been on my Pinterest page then you know I’m a sucker for a good dog photo. Vintage dog photos are even better. Needless to say, vintage English dog photos are the cats’ meow. Like the creative snap above and the one below of Charles Dickens and his dog.

 
 
 
 
 
 
Or this one of Lady Diana Beauclerk, circa 1866
 
 
 
or this one of actress Ellen Terry and friend. Whether the dogs are with well known people, on their own, or with their otherwise unknown but beloved owners, the vintage dog photos are compelling.

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
After a while, it began to dawn on me that many of the dog photos I was repining were noted as being from `the Libby Hall dog photo collection.’ The collection, I learned upon further research, is now held by the Bishopsgate Institute and Ms. Hall has published four books based upon some of these fabulous photographs she has collected over the years.
 
 
 
 
As there’s no point in re-inventing the wheel, I’m now going to turn you over to that most excellent blog, Spitalfields Life, where you can find the in-depth story and interview they did with Ms. Hall last year. I hope you will be as intrigued by Libby Hall and the funny/heartwarming/stirring and always evocative photos of England and it’s dogs that she’s saved from the dustbin (God bless her) and collected for us to cherish.