On The Shelf: London Villages

In London Villages: Explore the City’s Best Local Neighbourhoods author Zena Alkayat breaks down London’s current sprawl into 30 villages and introduces readers to each via a short description, maps, photos and five highlighted places of interest in each neighborhood. These are further broken down into areas of the City: central, north, south, east and west.  All of the usual suspects make an appearance: Shepherd Market, Camden Passage, Queen’s Park, Little Venice. What truly sets Alkayat’s guide apart are the newly evolved villages introduced to the reader, some of which are still works in progress, and her discovery of overlooked gems in well loved areas.

Zayat’s chatty tone allows the reader to feel as though they are getting inside information from a local, with all the “need to know” details thrown in for good measure. Here’s Zayat’s take on Turnham Green (near Chiswick Common): “Though situated a little north of Chiswick’s main attractions, Turnham Green has established itself as the commercial heart of the area. To the south runs an incredibly scenic stretch of the Thames dotted with rowing clubs and pubs for walkers. Inland, Palladian villa Chiswick House attracts vast numbers of tourists, as does Hogarth’s House . . . For Londoners, the rather upmarket Chiswick car boot sale operates on the first Sunday of every month from the school on Burlington Lane, and the area’s centuries-old brewing heritage means there are plenty of historic pubs to enjoy. Frustratingly, there’s little to get excited about along Chiswick High Road itself, dwarfed as it is by standard high street restaurants and chains but offshoots Turnham Green Terrace and Devonshire Road lay claim to a stronghold of independent retailers. On Turnham Green Terrace, a number of delis have made the street a destination for fans of fine food, and Foubert’s Café (a local institution since 1980) is famous for its Italian ice cream. Devonshire Road, meanwhile, offers clothes boutiques, gift shops and the ramshackle Strand Antiques at number 46.” One of the five highlighted places of interest chosen by Alkayat includes Fosters’ Bookshop on the High Road: “The Foster family has run this tightly packed antiquarian store since 1968 and continues to acquire and sell a choice selection of rare books and first editions, together with volumes of local history and more general Penguin paperbacks and illustrated children’s novels.” I don’t know about you, but I can’t wait to head to Turnham Green some first Sunday soon.

Other places I’m looking forward to visiting thanks to Alkayat include:

The Prince Alfred & Formosa Dining Room (Little Venice): “The Prince Alfred’s original snug rooms, snob screens and decorative tiles make it one of the best examples of a late Victorian pub in London. The ornate bar is adjoined to the intimate Formosa Dining Room, which enjoys repeated recommendations in Michelin’s Eating out in Pubs guide.”

Jane Bourvis (Golborne Road): “Walking into this vintage bridal shop feels like wandering to Miss Haversham’s dressing room. Dozens of antique lace dresses hang from the ceiling, corsets weigh down rails, and every available surface is topped with trinkets, strings of pearls and wind-up music boxes.”

Cannon & Cannon (Brixton Road): “Cannon & Cannon can sort cheese and charcuterie board dilemmas with minimal fuss. Its selection of British cured meat (sourced from as close as Kent and as far as the Scottish Highlands) is matched by a stellar range of artisan cheese. Pair with the deli’s chutneys and pickles and wash down with pale ale from Bermondsey’s Kernel Brewery.”

Virginia (Clarendon Cross): “Clarendon Cross’s concentration of eccentrics and artists may be thinning these days, but long serving establishments such as Virginia keep the area’s unconventional personality alive. Virginia Bates opened up shop in 1971 and is renowned in the upper echelons of the fashion industry for her incredible collection of antique apparel from the 1850s to the 1930s.”

London Villages should be on every Anglophile’s shelf. For visitors to the City, it will be indispensable when either planning your next trip or in order to learn more about the history of London. For locals, London Villages will no doubt keep that age old question, “What should we do this weekend?” at bay for months to come.

London Villages by Zena Alkayat with photographs by Kim Lightbody
 and illustrated maps by Jenny Seddon is published by Frances Lincoln
 in paperback, £9.99. 192 pages, ISBN 9780711234666

Video Wednesday

Colour footage of London during the Blitz shot by Alfred Coucher, wartime mayor and chief air raid warden of Marylebone, west London. The film comes to light 70 years after having been stored in his attic. Watch the six minute video covering it’s discovery, listen to historians discuss the impact of the Blitz on London and learn about the Blitz Project and the on-going digitalization of the online archives.
 
 
 
 
 

London Wrap Up

Here I am, sadly coming to the end of the extended account of my Summer, 2013, visit to England.  But I am thinking ahead to our Wellington Tour in September, 2014, when Kristine and I hope many of our readers will join us, beginning in London on September 4.

Last July, Britain was commemorating the Diamond Jubilee of HM Elizabeth, and the main thoroughfares were decked in purple and gold flags.  The country was also eagerly anticipating the birth of a royal heir, which occurred shortly after we returned to the US.

The Day of the Christening October 23, 2013
Prince George of Cambridge, his father, grandfather and great-grandmother, The Queen
 
For the past few weeks, I’ve been chronicling  my trip with Ed, who suffered from a very sore foot and had considerable pain. Nothing can be fun when your feet are sore!  But he was brave — and determined, so he limped onward through Cambridge, touring the stately estates of Houghton and Holkham Halls, and tramping around London, from Horse Guards and St. James and Mayfair, to the St. Pancras-King’s Cross neighborhood, and finally to the Wellington Arch and Apsley House.   
 
 
Handsome town houses along Grosvenor Crescent
 
After leaving Apsley House, we tried to calculate the most direct route to our restaurant, but in the curves and corners of the adjacent streets, it was no easy task to keep Ed on his feet as little as possible.  The scenery was excellent, however, fine townhouses, many converted to commercial use or serving as embassies.
 

 
More of the same 
 
On our walk to The Grenadier
The Grenadier, a delightful pub, beloved of Wellington’s troops
 
The modest little building has a long and celebrated history, including stories of the 1st Duke of Wellington and his troops, various ghosts, even up to the locals who were only momentarily disturbed by the limping tourists.  The food is right up to date, however, and delicious.
 

Inside the Grenadier
 
Kristine and I hope to welcome you to dinner at the Grenadier, included in The Wellington Tour.  We’ll be here on Saturday, September 6, 2014, so make plans to join us in London and touring a bit of southern England.  For details:
 
 
Charing Cross Road, London, July 17, 2013
 
Since it wouldn’t be a trip to London without an evening of theatre, I sent Ed back to the hotel for a nap and went to find tickets for a play he’d enjoy that evening, preferably a comedy.  Whether it was just good luck or London Karma, I got off the tube at Leicester Square station, and right next door was Wyndham’s Theatre where a play I had on my list was selling tickets in the lobby.  Eureka!
Felicity Kendal as Sheila in Relatively Speaking
 
Relatively Speaking by Alan Ayckbourn was first produced in 1965, but the revival held up perfectly as a funny but dark play about ironic misunderstandi
ngs and outright lies. Felicity Kendal has had a long career in television and movies, as well as the stage; I think I remember her most as Rosemary in Rosemary and Thyme, a British mystery series that has played on my local PBS station.  She was perfect in her role in this play, as were the other actors. We left laughing, but what character besides Sheila was a person we’d like to know?  Ayckbourn, author of about 77 plays, definitely has the last laugh.
A snap of the ceiling before they announced “No Cameras.”

The play was a perfect ending to a wonderful trip, for all that was left was repacking and the Heathrow Express before winging homeward.  Now, several months have passed, and Ed’s foot has healed up nicely.  And I have been planning, planning, planning for that September tour, perhaps with YOU.

 
 
 

St. Paul's Cathedral: a National Symbol

 
St. Paul’s Cathedral from the Thames, 1850
 

The Wellington Tour will visit St. Paul’s Cathedral on September 6, 2014, to pay our respects to the burial site of the Duke of Wellington…and there will be plenty more to see.  Please consider joining Kristine and me, Victoria, in England next year.  Our tour details are here.

St. Paul’s, Today

St. Paul’s is not only the mother church of the Diocese of London in the Church of England, it is a national symbol and the site of many national events: weddings, funerals, and significant celebrations. 

Queen Elizabeth II arrives at St. Paul’s 4 June 2012

It shares these roles with Westminster Abbey; St. Paul’s was the site of the service of national thanksgiving to commemorate the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012, and the Abbey in 2013 hosted the service of national thanksgiving to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Queen’s coronation.

Commemoration of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, St. Paul’s, 2012

For the website of the St. Paul’s Cathedral, click here.  You will find a dizzying round of services and events every week.

St. Paul’s, a symbol of survival and hope in the Blitz
 
Though the Cathedral suffered some damage during World War II, every morning Londoners awoke to see the dome standing tall and proud among the smoking ruins of the City. 
 
We will tell the story later of Sir Christopher Wren and building this St. Paul’s from 1666-1708, probably the fifth or sixth church built on this site.  The previous cathedral succumbed to the Great Fire of 1666.
 
Old St. Paul’s Cathedral in the Great Fire of 1666
 
Today, however, our post will take you to the Crypt to see the tomb of Arthur Wellesley (1769-1852), the first Duke of Wellington.  He is buried near the tomb of another hero of the Napoleonic Wars, Horatio, Admiral Lord Nelson (1758-1805), who died in the victory at the Battle of Trafalgar off the Spanish Coast establishing British hegemony on the seas.
 
Nelson’s Tomb, St. Paul’s Cathedral Crypt
 
Only one meeting between Admiral Nelson and the  eleven-year younger Major-General Wellington is known. It took place in September, 1805,  just six weeks before Nelson’s death. The two men waited to see the Secretary of War, Lord Castlereagh. Though Wellington immediately recognized the Admiral, Nelson only after some time knew with whom he was speaking.  Later, Wellington was quoted, “I don’t know that I ever had a conversation that interested me more”.   (Andrew Lambert,  [2005] Nelson: Britannia’s God of War. London: Faber and Faber.)

 
Duke of Wellington’s Funeral Procession leaving Apsley House

The Duke of Wellington passed away at his residence in Walmer Castle in Kent on September 14, 1852, at age 83.  He was one of a very few non-royals to have a state funeral, held at St. Paul’s Cathedral on November 18, 1852.  More than 13,000 were in attendance, including both Houses of Parliament.

An engraving of the funeral procession
 
Representative view of the Wellington Funeral
 

At the proper moment in the service, the Duke’s coffin was lowered into the crypt; the tomb was completed in 1858 by Architect Francis C. Penrose.   

Views of the Wellington Tomb

Not only military heroes are buried in the crypt of St. Paul’s Cathedral.  Among many others buried here are the founder of British nursing Florence Nightingale (1820-1910), composer Sir Arthur Sullivan (1842-1900), painter Sir Joshua Reynolds (1723-1792), scientist Sir Arthur Fleming (1881-1955), and Sculptor Henry Moore (1898-1986).

Also in the crypt is the tomb of Sir Christopher Wren (1632-1723), architect of the cathedral.  His epitaph, in Latin: ‘Reader, if you seek his monument, look around you.’

Please join us to tour St. Paul’s and many more wonderful sites in London and southern England on The Wellington Tour.

One The Shelf – Jeeves And The Wedding Bells

Author Sebastian Faulks was approached to write a sequel to the Jeeves and Wooster books of P.G. Wodehouse by the Wodehouse estate, which emphatically maintained since the announcement was first made that the story would be “faithful to the history and personality of Wodehouse’s characters.” Even so, as one who has read and relished these books for years, I have to say that I began this new installment with more than a modicum of doubt as to whether Faulks could pull this off. These were, after all, big shoes to fill, whether they belong to employer or valet. Anticipating the state of his reader’s minds, Faulks addresses these doubts in his Author’s Note, saying at the outset, “What I tried  . . . to do was give people who haven’t read the Jeeves books a sense of what they sound like; while for those who know them well I tried to provide a nostalgic variation – in which a memory of the real thing provides the tune and these pages perhaps a line of harmony.”

In keeping with the musical metaphors, I’ll tell you now that Jeeves and the Wedding Bells was a well played comic concert worthy of not a few well timed guffaws. It was delightful to find Jeeves and Wooster in a new storyline after all this time. New might not be the proper word; after all, Wodehouse himself employed several tried and true plot devices that became recurring threads in several books – bright young things getting engaged, bright young things falling out with their intended mates short of the altar, Bertie being buttonholed into patching things up between the lovers, Jeeves sorting out the results of Bertie’s mucking about, hidden identities, Aunt Agatha, cash strapped aristocrats and the appearance of at least one stately pile. All of these, and the Drones Club, make welcomed reappearances in Jeeves and the Wedding Bells, in which we find Bertie and Jeeves swapping roles – Jeeves assumes the identity of Lord Etringham, while Bertie pretends to be Jeeves’ manservant Wilberforce as they wend their way down to Sir Henry Hackwood’s Melbury Hall in Dorset so that Bertie can help a pal with affairs of the heart. . Note: Georgina Meadowes, to whom Bertie recently lost his own heart whilst in Cannes, is also in residence. And is engaged to someone other than the Wooster chappie.

Now that we’ve got all of our Wodehousian ducks in a demented row, here’s an excerpt from Jeeves and the Wedding Bells at the point where Bertie gets his first glimpse of Melbury Hall: “I am something of a connoisseur of the country pile and I must say old Sir Henry had done himself remarkably well. At a guess I would say it was from the reign of Queen Anne and had been bunged up by a bewigged ancestor awash with loot from the War of the Spanish Succession or some such lucrative away fixture. This ancient Hackwood had stinted himself on neither grounds nor messuages. The ensemble reached as far as the eye could see, taking in deer park, cricket pitch, lawns and meadows as well as walled kitchen gardens and a stable block that could have quartered the Household Cavalry. The staff needed for such a place must have drawn on every household in Kingston St. Giles and I could see that whoever signed the yearly cheque to the electricity company would need a tumblerful of something strong to nerve him for the task.”

Not too shabby, what? This Faulks fellow seems to have gotten the tone right. In fact, his Bertie Wooster seems a tad less dim than he tended to come across in Wodehouse’s original books. Some, in other reviews, have complained about this slight deviation. However, it’s my belief that Bertie simply had to evolve over time, even if that time were just a month, or even a year, in the imagniary world of P.G. Wodehouse. How often can one have the same tricks played upon their person without ever coming out the wiser? Dare we say that there’s a time in every clubman’s life when he’s simply got to get with it?

The reader might also notice just the slightest variation in Bertie’s interactions with the beloved and all knowing Jeeves, but this does not dim the cadence of their conversations. Here’s a sample of the dialogue that comes just before Bertie is set to wait at table at dinner at Melbury Hall that night. Bertie is concerned that his cover will be blown by being in such close proximity to the inhabitants of the house:

“It is a fact of life, sir,” he said, “that in the course of a large dinner party those at table barely notice those who wait on them.”
“Unless they make an ass of themselves.”
“Indeed, sir. Otherwise, the company tends to take the service for granted and to be absorbed in its own conversation.”
“That sounds a bit ungrateful.”
“It is the way of the world, sir, and not ours to question. Might I for instance ask you who waited on you last time you stayed at Brinkley Court?”
“Seppings?”
“No, sir. Mr. Seppings was indisposed. It was Mr. Easton, a young man from the village.”
“I didn’t notice.”
“Exactly, sir.”
I pondered this for a moment. “It’s still a blood-curdling prospect.”
“I understand your trepidation, sir. Remember, however, that your disguise has been unremarked thus far. Then, to make assurance doubly sure, as it were, it might be advisable to alter your appearance in some small way.”
“A false beard?”
“No, sir. The footman you are replacing -“
“Hoad? The gargoyle?”
“Mr. Hoad also has a pair of side-whiskers.”
“Are you saying the whiskers naturally go with the cork-screw and the folded white napkin?”
“They are more frequently worn by the serving classes, sir.”
There are times to take offence, but this was not one of them. I left my high horse unmounted – though tethered pretty close. “What else?”
“If you were to part your hair centrally, sir . . . It is surprising how much difference such a small alteration can make.”
“Anything further? An eyepatch? A kilt and sporran?”
“Nothing so drastic, sir. I think that if you were to wear my reading glasses for the evening the disguise would be complete without being histrionic.”

As you can see, the game is again afoot. I suggest that you refrain from peeking at any further reviews before reading Jeeves and the Wedding Bells lest the handful of nitpickers poison your mind against this enjoyable effort by Mr. Faulks, who is emphatically not P.G. Wodehouse. Wodehouse is dead. Faulks is alive. So are Bertie and Jeeves. Enjoy.

 
 
Author Sebastian Faulks
 
 
 
ISBN-10: 1250047595 – Hardcover $14.94
Publisher: St. Martin’s Press (November 5, 2013), 256 pages