The Wellington Tour: Frogmore House…in Windsor Great Park

The Wellington Tour will visit Frogmore House on  September 13, 2014, a special treat,  for all of you can come with Kristine and me, Victoria, on our great adventure.  For all the details on the tour, click here.

Frogmore House, from the lake

For the Frogmore House website, click here.

Aerial View, House is center right

Frogmore House has served as a sort of refuge for various members of the royal family for several centuries.  The property became part of the royal holdings in the 16th century and was leased out to others. The land was acquired because it was adjacent to Windsor Great Park, though it was as marshy as its name indicates.  Several houses were built  by the Aldworth family, and the larger, known as Great Frogmore, was eventually leased to the Duke of Northumberland, (1665-1716), who was the natural son of Charles II and the Duchess of Cleveland. Eventually it was purchased for ‘
Queen Charlotte (1744-1818), wife of George III, in 1792.

Queen Charlotte, c. 1789-90, by Sir Thomas Lawrence
National Gallery, London
 
 
 Charlotte and her daughters often fled to Frogmore to escape from the confines of palaces and castles, to this comparatively modest house where they could enjoy a bit more relaxation.  Queen Charlotte was an avid gardener and brought a number of unusual plants to this estate. Several of the princesses painted or sketched works shown here.
 
For a brief segment of the conversation of HRH Charles, Prince of Wales with the Royal Librarian about Frogmore interiors, click here.
 

The Green Pavilion, 1817, from Pyne’s Royal Residences
 
 
The Green Pavilion has been restored to its look during Queen Charlotte’s lifetime.  Upon her death, Frogmore was left to her eldest unmarried daughter, Princess Augusta, though most of the furnishings were sold for the benefit of all the princesses.
 
 
The Mary Moser Room, photographer: Christopher Simon Sykes
The Royal Collection © 2009 Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II
 
 
The flowered panels by artist Mary Moser (1744-1819) were commissioned by Queen Charlotte, who chose the artist’s name for the room.  The unusual four-tier revolving bookstand at the right dates from this same period of time.
 
After the death of Princess Augusta in 1840, the crown repurchased the estate and Queen Victoria gave it to her mother, Victoria, Duchess of Kent, as her home. Many alterations and modernizations were made once more and the Duchess presided over the redecoration of several principal rooms.
 
The Duchess of Kent’s Drawing Room, photographer: Derry Moore
The Royal Collection © 2009 Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II
 
 In addition to artistic interests, reading and stitching, the ladies who enjoyed the informality of Frogmore sometimes organized theatrical programs and concerts by their friends as well as professional musicians. I suspect that after seeing the grandeur of nearby Windsor Castle, we will thoroughly understand why time at Frogmore was so precious.

 

The Colonnade
 
 All of the residents of Frogmore have enjoyed the garden, and like the rooms, re-imagination often reigned. After the Indian Mutiny, Lord Canning, Governor-General of India, presented an Indian Kiosk captured at Lucknow in 1858  to Queen Victoria who had it placed near the house.
 
 
Indian Kiosk
 
 
After the death of her mother and her husband, both in 1861, Queen Victoria often sought seclusion at Frogmore She loved the house and garden where  ‘all is peace and quiet and you only hear the hum of the bees, the singing of the birds’. She built a mausoleum for Prince Albert and herself on the grounds. It is rarely open to the public due to ongoing restoration projects. 
 
Though no royals have lived at Frogmore for some time, it is often used for meetings and other activities.  Below is the family portrait taken at the reception held at Frogmore after the wedding of the Queen’s eldest grandson to Autumn Kelly in 2008. 
 
 
This image released by the family shows the wedding group of Peter Phillips, top center left, and his bride Autumn Kelly, top center right, at Frogmore House, Windsor Castle, England and (seated left to right front row) Prince Philip, Queen Elizabeth II, Ivy Kelly, Edith McCarthy, (standing left to right) Mark Phillips, Princess Anne, Kity Kelly, Brian Kelly. (AP Photo/Sir Geoffrey Shakerley, HO)

This image released by the family shows the wedding group of Peter Phillips, top center left, and his bride Autumn Kelly, top center right, at Frogmore House, Windsor Castle, England and (seated left to right front row) Prince Philip, Queen Elizabeth II, Ivy Kelly, Edith McCarthy, (standing left to right) Mark Phillips, Princess Anne, Kitty Kelly, Brian Kelly. (AP Photo/Sir Geoffrey Shakerley, HO)

 
 
 
I am looking forward to seeing this lovely house which has been so dear to many generations of the royal family.  It is open only a few days each year, so The Wellington Tour is fortunate to be eligible.
 
Consider joining us for The Wellington Tour in September 2014.
 
 
 
 

A Pinterest Post: Chettle House

Those of you who know my penchant for shopping for homes online and my fondness for Pinterest won’t be surprised that the photo above piqued my interest. What a beautiful house! Of course, I had to learn more – it’s known as Chettle House and it’s in Dorset.

Set in 5 acres of lovely gardens, this charming 1710 Queen Anne manor house was designed by Thomas Archer. An example of English Baroque architecture,  Chettle House, the village manor, is a red brick mansion built by the Bastard brothers of Blandford Forum. Yes, their surname was really Bastard. You can read more about them here.  Two rounded ends were added to the house in 1912. One of the highlights of the interior is the elegant Oak Entrance Hall, with its two flights of sweeping oak stairs, lined by fine family portraits, rising separately to meet at the balcony above.  Chettle House is a popular venue for weddings, civil ceremonies, photo shoots and filming. Most recently, Chettle House was William Wilberforce’s London home in the film Amazing Grace about the abolition of the slave trade.
 
 
 

Chettle House is now run as a bed and breakfast and is owned by Fiona and Peter Bourke. As Peter writes on their website “My wife, Fiona, and I are delighted to welcome you to Chettle House. This has been our much loved family home for over 150 years and since we inherited the property in 2002, we have devoted our lives to its restoration and upkeep. We thus take enormous pleasure in sharing it with others.”

    The beautiful Chettle Church, whose West Tower dates back to the early 16th century, offers a stunning backdrop to the gardens that surround the house.

 
 
The Castleman Hotel, once the dower house for the estate, is run by Bourke’s younger brother, Teddy, and his wife Barbara. Click here to read a Daily Mail article from 2008 asking whether the village of Chettle (pop. about 90) is the perfect English village.
 
 
See the Pinterest links in the right sidebar to see all of Kristine and Victoria’s Pinterest boards.

On The Shelf: London Villages

In London Villages: Explore the City’s Best Local Neighbourhoods author Zena Alkayat breaks down London’s current sprawl into 30 villages and introduces readers to each via a short description, maps, photos and five highlighted places of interest in each neighborhood. These are further broken down into areas of the City: central, north, south, east and west.  All of the usual suspects make an appearance: Shepherd Market, Camden Passage, Queen’s Park, Little Venice. What truly sets Alkayat’s guide apart are the newly evolved villages introduced to the reader, some of which are still works in progress, and her discovery of overlooked gems in well loved areas.

Zayat’s chatty tone allows the reader to feel as though they are getting inside information from a local, with all the “need to know” details thrown in for good measure. Here’s Zayat’s take on Turnham Green (near Chiswick Common): “Though situated a little north of Chiswick’s main attractions, Turnham Green has established itself as the commercial heart of the area. To the south runs an incredibly scenic stretch of the Thames dotted with rowing clubs and pubs for walkers. Inland, Palladian villa Chiswick House attracts vast numbers of tourists, as does Hogarth’s House . . . For Londoners, the rather upmarket Chiswick car boot sale operates on the first Sunday of every month from the school on Burlington Lane, and the area’s centuries-old brewing heritage means there are plenty of historic pubs to enjoy. Frustratingly, there’s little to get excited about along Chiswick High Road itself, dwarfed as it is by standard high street restaurants and chains but offshoots Turnham Green Terrace and Devonshire Road lay claim to a stronghold of independent retailers. On Turnham Green Terrace, a number of delis have made the street a destination for fans of fine food, and Foubert’s Café (a local institution since 1980) is famous for its Italian ice cream. Devonshire Road, meanwhile, offers clothes boutiques, gift shops and the ramshackle Strand Antiques at number 46.” One of the five highlighted places of interest chosen by Alkayat includes Fosters’ Bookshop on the High Road: “The Foster family has run this tightly packed antiquarian store since 1968 and continues to acquire and sell a choice selection of rare books and first editions, together with volumes of local history and more general Penguin paperbacks and illustrated children’s novels.” I don’t know about you, but I can’t wait to head to Turnham Green some first Sunday soon.

Other places I’m looking forward to visiting thanks to Alkayat include:

The Prince Alfred & Formosa Dining Room (Little Venice): “The Prince Alfred’s original snug rooms, snob screens and decorative tiles make it one of the best examples of a late Victorian pub in London. The ornate bar is adjoined to the intimate Formosa Dining Room, which enjoys repeated recommendations in Michelin’s Eating out in Pubs guide.”

Jane Bourvis (Golborne Road): “Walking into this vintage bridal shop feels like wandering to Miss Haversham’s dressing room. Dozens of antique lace dresses hang from the ceiling, corsets weigh down rails, and every available surface is topped with trinkets, strings of pearls and wind-up music boxes.”

Cannon & Cannon (Brixton Road): “Cannon & Cannon can sort cheese and charcuterie board dilemmas with minimal fuss. Its selection of British cured meat (sourced from as close as Kent and as far as the Scottish Highlands) is matched by a stellar range of artisan cheese. Pair with the deli’s chutneys and pickles and wash down with pale ale from Bermondsey’s Kernel Brewery.”

Virginia (Clarendon Cross): “Clarendon Cross’s concentration of eccentrics and artists may be thinning these days, but long serving establishments such as Virginia keep the area’s unconventional personality alive. Virginia Bates opened up shop in 1971 and is renowned in the upper echelons of the fashion industry for her incredible collection of antique apparel from the 1850s to the 1930s.”

London Villages should be on every Anglophile’s shelf. For visitors to the City, it will be indispensable when either planning your next trip or in order to learn more about the history of London. For locals, London Villages will no doubt keep that age old question, “What should we do this weekend?” at bay for months to come.

London Villages by Zena Alkayat with photographs by Kim Lightbody
 and illustrated maps by Jenny Seddon is published by Frances Lincoln
 in paperback, £9.99. 192 pages, ISBN 9780711234666

Video Wednesday

Colour footage of London during the Blitz shot by Alfred Coucher, wartime mayor and chief air raid warden of Marylebone, west London. The film comes to light 70 years after having been stored in his attic. Watch the six minute video covering it’s discovery, listen to historians discuss the impact of the Blitz on London and learn about the Blitz Project and the on-going digitalization of the online archives.
 
 
 
 
 

London Wrap Up

Here I am, sadly coming to the end of the extended account of my Summer, 2013, visit to England.  But I am thinking ahead to our Wellington Tour in September, 2014, when Kristine and I hope many of our readers will join us, beginning in London on September 4.

Last July, Britain was commemorating the Diamond Jubilee of HM Elizabeth, and the main thoroughfares were decked in purple and gold flags.  The country was also eagerly anticipating the birth of a royal heir, which occurred shortly after we returned to the US.

The Day of the Christening October 23, 2013
Prince George of Cambridge, his father, grandfather and great-grandmother, The Queen
 
For the past few weeks, I’ve been chronicling  my trip with Ed, who suffered from a very sore foot and had considerable pain. Nothing can be fun when your feet are sore!  But he was brave — and determined, so he limped onward through Cambridge, touring the stately estates of Houghton and Holkham Halls, and tramping around London, from Horse Guards and St. James and Mayfair, to the St. Pancras-King’s Cross neighborhood, and finally to the Wellington Arch and Apsley House.   
 
 
Handsome town houses along Grosvenor Crescent
 
After leaving Apsley House, we tried to calculate the most direct route to our restaurant, but in the curves and corners of the adjacent streets, it was no easy task to keep Ed on his feet as little as possible.  The scenery was excellent, however, fine townhouses, many converted to commercial use or serving as embassies.
 

 
More of the same 
 
On our walk to The Grenadier
The Grenadier, a delightful pub, beloved of Wellington’s troops
 
The modest little building has a long and celebrated history, including stories of the 1st Duke of Wellington and his troops, various ghosts, even up to the locals who were only momentarily disturbed by the limping tourists.  The food is right up to date, however, and delicious.
 

Inside the Grenadier
 
Kristine and I hope to welcome you to dinner at the Grenadier, included in The Wellington Tour.  We’ll be here on Saturday, September 6, 2014, so make plans to join us in London and touring a bit of southern England.  For details:
 
 
Charing Cross Road, London, July 17, 2013
 
Since it wouldn’t be a trip to London without an evening of theatre, I sent Ed back to the hotel for a nap and went to find tickets for a play he’d enjoy that evening, preferably a comedy.  Whether it was just good luck or London Karma, I got off the tube at Leicester Square station, and right next door was Wyndham’s Theatre where a play I had on my list was selling tickets in the lobby.  Eureka!
Felicity Kendal as Sheila in Relatively Speaking
 
Relatively Speaking by Alan Ayckbourn was first produced in 1965, but the revival held up perfectly as a funny but dark play about ironic misunderstandi
ngs and outright lies. Felicity Kendal has had a long career in television and movies, as well as the stage; I think I remember her most as Rosemary in Rosemary and Thyme, a British mystery series that has played on my local PBS station.  She was perfect in her role in this play, as were the other actors. We left laughing, but what character besides Sheila was a person we’d like to know?  Ayckbourn, author of about 77 plays, definitely has the last laugh.
A snap of the ceiling before they announced “No Cameras.”

The play was a perfect ending to a wonderful trip, for all that was left was repacking and the Heathrow Express before winging homeward.  Now, several months have passed, and Ed’s foot has healed up nicely.  And I have been planning, planning, planning for that September tour, perhaps with YOU.