Spencer House

All of us are familiar with the name Spencer in the British aristocracy, e.g. Lady Diana Spencer, aka Diana, Princess of Wales;  Winston Spencer Churchill; Georgiana Spencer Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire;  the Earls Spencer. It’s an old and historic name and family.  Spencer House was the London town house built in the 1750’s by the 1st Earl Spencer; it is now owned by a corporation (headed by Lord Rothschild, to whom we must give thanks for its preservation and  care). In the BBCTwo series by Amanda Vickery on Georgian Taste, the house and its principle rooms and furnishings were described as the epitome of Georgian style and elegance. The Spencer House website is here.


It isn’t always easy to find the entrance. Though the west facade faces Green Park (above), you must wander around in the cluster of streets west of St. James’s Street.   There are several little twists or turns to take, but don’t despair if you don’t  find it right away. The scenery is delicious — and though there are few pedestrians or autos, the people watching CAN be excellent.  Watch for top hats– these will be the doormen  at the hotel!


One day, on my way to Spencer House, I took this picture of a perfect
house in a row of 18th century buildings.  It shows the torch snuffers on the lamp poles, for the footmen to extinguish their guiding torches after travel at night. Also, the fan light above the door would serve as an address before there were numbers on the houses.  The picture of the unique fan light would be shown on your invitation to identify the proper venue!

Also nearby, The Stafford Hotel

Someday, I want to stay at the Stafford, a truly elegant establishment now part of the international Kempinski chain. I admit to entering its portals once to have a drink in the bar. Delicious.

Here’s a floor plan of the house. According to the guidebook, the house retains its essential Georgian neo-classical bones though it has been remodeled, renovated, updated and conserved many times over its many years.  The basic layout was the design of John Vardy(1718-1765), a pupil of William Kent (1685-1748). The west façade facing into Green Park is almost entirely his work (as restored), and as such, it is one of the finest, most authentic examples of Imperial Roman architecture and one of the first built in 18th century England.

The ground floor contains the Entrance Hall, a morning room, library, and the principle dining room.  The entrance hall is described as austere, in muted colors, with classical decorations based on Greek or Roman foundations.  The relief over the fireplace portrays Antonius, a favorite of the emperor Hadrian, and one of the first pieces the 1st Earl Spencer purchased.  Vardy is suppposed to have been responsible for most of the ground floor, with James “Athenian” Stuart taking over for the design and decoration of the first floor.



The ante room, left.  Many of the furnishings and architectural details of Spencer House, such as fireplace surrounds,  were removed to the Spencer country estate of Althorp during times of war or when the family leased out all or part of the building.  Thus, some of the present furnishings are original, others exact copies of the originals, others similar to the originals, some purchased for the renovation, completed in 1989, and many more pieces on loan  from the royal collection, the National Trust, the VandA, or other sources.

The Palm Room with its gilded columns and palm fronds is thought to be much as Vardy designed it, although many others have worked on the house. The chairs and benches are exact copies of Vardy’s; the originals are now in the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. The Medici Venus, in the central apse, was a very popular sculpture in the 18th and 19th centuries, one of the most graceful and beautiful statues copied or based on the Greek original, thought to be by 4th century B.C. master sculptor Praxiteles. Replicas can be found in stately homes, palaces, gardens, and museums worldwide. This copy was made by in white marble by Francis Harwood in 1765.

On the first floor, or piano nobile, the main rooms were meant to be impressive, yet welcoming; elaborate, yet comfortable; stunning, yet comprehensible to those who had enjoyed a classical education (as one might expect all who qualified to enter here to have had).  The imposing Great Room is used for balls, for dining, or receptions. One can hardly imagine what luminaries of British politics and  society  graced it.  Again, if only walls could speak. What did the Duke whisper to the Countess? And what did the Prime Minister confide to the Prince? And was that the dowager over there, winking at the handsome footman? My, my.
Great Room Ceiling medallion detail, right. The first floor and many of the details of the building were turned over by  1st Earl Spencer to James “Athenian” Stuart (1713-1788) well before the house was finished.  And just a few years later, Henry Holland (1745-1806), who also was responsible for Brooks Club, various versions of Carlton House and the Marine Pavilion, redid some of the rooms.  Both of them, as well as subsequent architects, basically respected the neo-classic character of the building, never resorting to Gothic or Oriental fads.

The Painted Room is the piece de resistance of the entire structure, executed by Athenian Stuart and fully restored to his designs. One of the most celebrated 18th C. interiors in Europe, the Painted Room actually changes according to variations in the light, both natural and artificial. The work took Stuart six years to complete; the designs celebrate the triumph of love, in honor of the happy marriage of the 1st Earl Spencer and his wife, Georgiana, nee Poyntz (parents of Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire). On one panel, Venus is supposedly a portrait of the 1st Countess.

Here is another view of the Painted Room with different lighting and an angle which shows the ceiling, one of its most attractive features.  Many of the paintings and sculptural features of the room are based on themes related to love and marriage from ancient Greece and Rome. Intertwining  circles and vines are related to wedding rings, for example.  Roses, wreathes and flower garlands relate to the same premises.

Another view of a detail of the Painted Room, showing the figures of loving couples from mythology and the elaborate decoration which covers the walls and ceilings.


Needless to say, this would be the perfect setting for a wedding, and the current owners would be delighted to arrange one.  Just be sure the groom is a billionaire.


Now all you have to do, to prove your excellent Georgian taste, is to plan your special event, such as a grand ball, at Spencer House. Please don’t forget to invite Kristine and Victoria. We’ll be sure to attend!
And put the pictures right here.

The Elegant Taste of the Georgians

Victoria here. I subscribe to a number of British publications — and always save them until I can sit down with a cuppa — and enjoy them without pressure. Needless to say, they pile up. The BBC History magazine for December 2010 had to wait until last weekend when my DH was immersed in football games. I had much more fun reading “All in the best possible Taste” on p. 42, which was written to accompany the BBC Two series At Home with the Georgians, presented by Amanda Vickery. Her book, Behind Closed Doors: At Home in Georgian England, was published in the U.S. by the Yale University Press in 2010.

Amanda Vickery is a professor of history at Queen Mary, University of London. While investigating the subject of taste, she discusses Lady Shelburne.  Faithful readers of this blog will already be familiar with Lady Shelburne’s taste, as shown in her homes.  Lansdowne House, London, and Bowood, in Wiltshire, were the topics here last March 29 and 31 and April 4, 2010.   As Earl and Countess of Shelburne, William and Sophia established prominence in Georgian social and political circles. Later, after Lady Shelburne’s early death at age 25, the earl was named first Marquess of Lansdowne.

Amanda Vickery has specialized in matters domestic in her latest book as well as in her earlier work,The Gentleman’s Daughter: Women’s Lives in Georgian England, winner of the Longman History Today Prize in 1998. Marriage, child-bearing and housekeeping are described based on Vickery’s research into the letters and diaries of 18th and early 19th century women.


I am sorry to report that the BBC Two website does not have a replay available for the three-part series At Home with the Georgians.  Why not, I’d like to know?  Perhaps it will show up in one of those catalogues or PBS will run it.

Vickery, in the brief article in the December BBC History magazine, tells of the arranged marriage of William, Earl of Shelburne, and Lady Sophia Carteret in 1765 which blossomed into a true love match. Together they chose furnishings for their households, including paintings, decor, statuary and carpets.

Taste, in the prevailing view of their time and class, was based on classical themes, evidence of knowlege of the Greek and Roman civilizations. At right is the Adam Room in London’s Lansdowne Club, part of the former mansion belonging to the Shelburne/Lansdownes, as recently restored. Note particularly the elaborate ceiling design.

At left is the Shelburne/Lansdowne dining room as it was reconstructed in New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art after the partial demolition in the 1930’s of the London house just off Berkeley Square.  Shelburne was a rising Whig politician and the family homes were important arenas of social and political life in those days

After the sad death of Lady Sophia (1745-1771), he married again. I suppose it was necessary to have a hostess to preside over these fine rooms!

The drawing room from Lansdowne House can be seen in the

Philadelphia Museum of Art.  It is a fine example of Adam’s
Etruscan/Pompeiian designs.   It was in rooms such as these that members of Britain’s ruling circles combined their discussions of pending legislation with the enjoyment of fine wines and elaborate meals, dancing, concerts, and cards.

The Shelburne/Lansdowne family also entertained at the Wiltshire property of Bowood, their principle country home not far from Bath.  At left is the dining room from Bowood which is now the Board Room in the venerable Lloyds of London, occupying a place of honor in the otherwise extremely modern building in the City of London
.
The taste of the furnishings provided the proper setting for the establishment of national policy and thus had an important effect upon them.

Above are two editions of Amanda Vickery’s The Gentleman’s Daughter, highly recommended.

The BBC History magazine article also suggests visits to two other houses to study the taste of the Georgians: Spencer House, in St.  James, and Syon House, on the outskirts of London. This blog will take you to both soon.  Stay tuned.

Our New Year's Un-Resolutions

As you read this, I’ll be winging the wrong way across the pond in an airplane for eleven hours, but Victoria and I want to take this opportunity to wish each and every one a very happy and healthy New Year and to share our resolutions with you . . . .

Kristine’s Resolutions – Honest to gawd, I can’t think of a single thing I’m willing to make a resolution about. It appears that I’m a truly horrible person. But really, why bother making resolutions that you know at the outset you’ll never keep? I’m not going to stop smoking. Or drinking. I’ve already given up Haagen-Dazs strawberry and rum raisin ice cream – I am not prepared to give up mani’s, pedi’s, massages or Botox. Or Ralph Lauren. Or red meat.

 Or Grey Goose martini’s with blue cheese olives. Which is completely different from the aforementioned drinking, which referred to rum, which you drink. Rather than maritini’s, which you sip.  I’m not going to stop watching reality shows like Real Housewives (all cities), the Kardashians, Salon Takeover, Hoarders, Pawn Stars, etc. Won’t stop buying Artie-facts. Or books. Hmmmmm . . . Oh, I know! I know! I resolve to try and have more patience with annoying people, to wait at least a month after my last trip to England in order to start planning the next and to regularly buy an extra large bag of pet food at the supermarket to leave in the animal shelter donation box by the exit. Phew! Redemption at the very last moment . . . . for a second there I sounded like the female version of Daniel Cleaver. Or (possibly worse yet) Prinny.         

Victoria’s Resolutions

Of course I have a well-ordered, neat list with carefully-researched waypoints to measure my progress.

NOT!!!!

2011 WILL NOT BE THE YEAR I REFORM.

More’s the pity.

I am working on at least four book projects, not to mention organizing all the 35-mm slides my family took for so many years. And researching genealogy.  And thinking (Note: not doing) about finishing the dozen or so quilt tops I pieced years ago. 

And imprinting the grandchildren with all the things I find necessary for their eventual brilliance!

And…and…and…and…

Well, I do have a few specifics, like a cruise from Lisbon to Dover, stopping at several spots in Spain and France before landing in England and putting in some time in at libraries across the southern section of the country.

And speaking at the 2011 JASNA AGM in Fort Worth, TX in October.  And hoping the Sir Thomas Lawrence exhibition comes to New Haven.  And….and…and…

Well, Kristine and I are obviously not cut out for this discipline deal!  Hope you are — but only if you want to be.  I know that as soon as I establish a specific goal, I try to think of a way to sabotage it. Sigh. There’s such a contrary person under my meek exterior.

Seriously, we wish a year of peace and love and satisfaction to all of us.  That should take care of about everything.  Oh yeah, and prosperity (wish I could keep that closer to the top of the list someday). And lots of books. And people you love. And happiness, which to us are Ed and Greg. And future trips to England. Funny the way things always comes back around to England . . . .



Happy Birthday, Jerry

Victoria here, requesting your indulgence as I range over several subjects inspired by today’s celebration of my brother’s birthday on December 28.  Like many people who have Christmas season birthdays, I guess he always gets the short end of the stick (and he will in this blog eventually).  I was five when he was born, and I remember wating eagerly for a new baby in the household, which I figured would be much like having another doll.But I wasn’t prepared to be taken away from my new cache of Santa-delivered bounty on the day after Christmas.  I went to my grandmother’s without my wonderful new dollhouse, a tragedy to a spoiled little brat like me.  And Jerry took a rather long time to arrive, probably more to Mother’s dismay than mine. It was one of those on-again off-again things which went on several days. 
 Eventually Mother and Daddy brought home a little doll for me, but one who seemed to cry a lot more than my toys did.  Nevertheless, I have always been proud of my little brother.  He has a wonderful wife, Pat, with whom I’ve traveled to Merrie Olde England.  A few years ago, we were there for the Harrod’s after Christmas sale. What fun! Actually, Jerry and Pat are both enthusiastic travelers, and we’ve “done” London together.  Thinking about those who have Christmastime birthdays reminded me of a story I loved in my childhood, The Bird’s Christmas Carol by Kate Douglas Wiggin, published in 1888 (I was really quite young at the time!). It may have been read to me but I remember reading it myself leading up to Christmas.
It is the story of a little girl born to the Bird family on Christmas and named Carol. When she is about five or so, she is stricken with a serious disease. She declines and after a couple of years her family is aware she will die soon. As a birthday gift to herself, she plans a Christmas party for a struggling poor family of many children who are funny little rascals. The party is a success and that night, Christmas night, she dies. It is not, despite that synopsis, entirely a sad story, and it was a vivid one for this little girl. It has just the right combination of melancholy, humor and hope.  At the ending, everyone has been inspired by the generosity and courage of young Carol Bird.Some years later, I went to a play or a movie – can’t remember which — entitled The Christmas Carol. I was prepared for the enchanting and melancholy story of Carol and her Christmas birthday party.
Instead, it was Dickens: Scrooge, Bob Crachit, Tiny Tim and the ghosts. I was heart-broken. How I wanted that sad sweet story of the Birds and not the mean old Scrooge.Kate Doublas Wiggin (1856-1923) is probably best known as the beloved author of Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm (1903), another of my favorites. Wiggins was a leader in the kindergarten movement in the US and wrote many other stories, mostly for children.You can find The Bird’s Christmas Carol in google books and elsewhere on the web.
So back to my brother Jerry.  He has also been an eager reader — and I remember buying him several of his favorite books by Albert Payson Terhune for Christmas and/or his birthday. Terhune (1872-1942) was another popular author of children’s books, including the series on Lad, the collie.  In fact, Jerry had a beautiful tri-color collie named Lad for many years.  I wish I had a picture of Lad — but he did look much like the dog to the left.  Beautiful and gentle.
I read some of those Terhune books too. They were very popular, and probably still are.  Terhune raised collies at his Sunnybank Kennels in New Jersey. Part of the property is now a park in Wayne, NJ, and includes many of the graves of Terhune’s famous dogs. Read more here.
 Lad’s grave
Albert Payson Terhune with some of his dogs
Jerry and Pat, like so many working folks, have found their cats to be more practical pets than trying to keep dogs.  They are particularly fond of Siamese, partial to the traditional applehead variety more than the exaggerated features of some of the show-type Siamese. They’ve also rescued some street cats and taken care of many more. I always admire people who follow their convictions and actually work to prevent the spread of feline diseases and to support the efforts of humane organizations.
And just to relate this birthday blog back to our subject at hand, our mutual love for all things British, above are two of the wonderful magazines Jerry and Pat send us for Christmas each year.  If you don’t know either of these, or any of the other BBC mags, try them out!  Hours of continuing delight all year long.
Here is what I send to Jerry — and Pat gets Victoria (American but with a distinct British flavor).  Guess I have the better deal, right?So happy birthday, little brother.  See, even in our approaching dotage, I will continue to tease you!  That’s the nature of the game!

Basildon Park Rebirths

Basildon Park is in Berkshire overlooking the lovely Thames Valley, built in the 1770’s in the strict Palladian style by architect John Carr of York.

Basildon Park was abandoned about 1910 and stripped of its furnishings even including flooring, fireplace surrounds and woodwork. It was used to house troops or prisoners in both world wars. Some rooms were removed and reconstructed in the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City (ballroom, below).

Basildon Park stood mostly empty and deteriorating until 1952 when Lord and Lady Iliffe, a newspaper tycoon and his wife, rescued the house. Lady Iliffe writes, “To say it was derelict is hardly good enough: no window was left intact, and most were repaired with cardboard or plywood; there was a large puddle on the Library floor, coming from the bedroom above, where a fire had just been stopped in time; walls were covered with signatures and graffiti from various occupants….It was appallingly cold and damp. And yet, there was still an atmosphere of former elegance, and a feeling of great solidity. Carr’s house was still there, damaged but basically unchanged.”

Views of the outside show the Bath stone construction. The Palladian window in the Garden Front  is in the Octagon Room.

The Iliffes were fortunate enough to find genuine Carr fireplaces and woodwork removed from other houses, mostly in Yorkshire. Carr employed meticulous craftsmen and used standard measurements so that the pieces were virtually interchangeable.

Again, Lady Iliffe: “Carr was such a precise architect that his mahogany doors from Panton (in Lincolnshire) fitted exactly in the sockets of the missing Basildon ones.” Thus Basildon is both authentic and a recreation in one.

Lady Iliffe collaborated with leading designers of the English Country House style of decorating to fit out the house with a combination of antiques and

contemporary pieces, including the inevitable floral chintzes that simply drip with that country house charm. Right, the Octagon Room interior.

Upstairs the generously sized rooms were adapted to alternating bedrooms and huge bathrooms. It is a bit of a shock to see one of the perfectly proportioned rooms with its decorative plaster ceiling and elaborate woodwork and marble fireplace decked out with nothing more than the finest 1950’s plumbing fixtures.

Basildon Park was built between 1776 and 1782 by Sir Francis Sykes, created a baronet in 1781. His roots were in Yorkshire and he chose Carr of York to build his house, a classical Palladian villa with a main block of rooms joined to pavilions on either side. The Sykes fortune was made during his service in India. Right is the view of the countryside.

In 1838, the Sykes family sold the house to James Morrison (d. 1857), a Liberal MP who had turned his London haberdashery business into an international concern. By the way, when he was a shopman at Todd and Co., he married his employer’s daughter, and eventually took over the firm. Morrison engaged architect John Papworth to design handkerchiefs for his company and later to remodel Basildon. Morrison had acquired a fine collection of paintings and was one of the founding fathers of the National Gallery in London. Papworth worked at Basildon from 1837 to 1842, making some changes to the Octagon Room and other interior designs, all in keeping with the original spirit of Carr’s house. Morrison’s daughter Miss
Ellen Morrison was the last resident before Basildon Park fell into disuse.

Basildon Park was used to house soldiers during World War II, as were many country houses, and certainly suffered occasional, if not constant, abuse.
The Iliffes were collectors of the work of the distinguished English artist Graham Sutherland, whose gigantic tapestry adorns the modernist reconstruction of the Coventry Cathedral. (The 14th century cathedral was destroyed in 1940 by German bombs; a modern cathedral was built and filled

with works of contemporary art.) A number of Sutherland’s paintings and many studies for the tapestry he designed hang at Basildon. The Iliffe family  presented the house to the National Trust in 1978.

Basildon Park has often served as a set for costume dramas for the BBC and other producers. Here is a scene from the 2005 Pride and Prejudice, where Basildon enacted the role of Netherfield Park.
This picture shows how carefully designed temporary baseboards can hide 21th century electrical outlets or cable connections.

To Basildon Park in Berkshire now in the capable hands of the National Trust, we wish as many more rebirths as necessary to keep out the damp and bring in the tourists.