Category: Victoria Hinshaw

LOOSE IN LONDON: A VISIT TO CLARENCE HOUSE

Victoria here, inviting you to our take on Clarence House, London,.  Kristine and I  booked our tour while the current residents, the Prince of Wales and his wife, Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, were off on vacation.

Poster advertising the summer opening of Clarence House

This was not the greeting we received when we arrived.  Oh, well.

Clarence House is located adjacent to St. James’s Palace (redbrick, on the far right) and next to Lancaster House, on the left.


1874 engraving of Clarence House

Clarence House , designed by John Nash,was built for the Duke of Clarence between 1825 and 1827. After the death of his elder brother, George IV, the duke became King William IV in 1830.  He and his wife, Queen Adelaide, continued to live in Clarence House until his death in 1837.

George IV’s extensive plans with Nash for remodeling Buckingham Palace were not finished at the king’s death.  According to Wikipedia, “Unlike his elder brother George IV, the Duke of Clarence was not a connoisseur of art and fine furnishings. The interior of Clarence House was plainly decorated and furnished in comparison to Buckingham Palace and York House.”

Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, lived at Clarence House from 1953 until 
her death in 2002 at age 101.
The Morning Room
Portrait of Princess Elizabeth, 1933 by Philip de Laszlo
The Morning Room, current photo
The Morning Room 1870’s; photo by Horatio N. King
Royal Collection Trust/© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2014
The Morning Room is pretty in blue,
The tour of Clarence House takes in only a few rooms on the ground floor. The Morning Room was the most attractive, and very feminine, as if a cloud of little princesses would materialize in their billowy organza gowns at any moment.
The Mystery Portrait?  Seems obvious to us: it is Queen Elizabeth, the Queen Mother
But both Kristine and I are positive the guide told a story about it being a portrait of Princess Elizabeth by artist Augustus Strong who was in such awe of the sitter that he made her look awkward. When I was surfing the web for more info, I found another blog post on a visit to Clarence House that told the same story about the painting.  Must have been the same guide, the same misinformed guide,  
Dining Room
The Lancaster Room
I’m sorry to say I found this room almost claustrophobic with its crowded feeling and  myriad designs. ‘Less is more’ was not the byword for the creator of this decor!

The Horse Corridor
We know the Queen Mother was a horse lover and owner of a fine racing stable. This handsome corridor was a treasure trove for us horse-crazy types. For others, not so much.
The Library
No pictures are allowed on the grounds or within Clarence House. These pictures come from official sources, but I feel quite sure that I could not have taken any more attractive. Which led us to the question: is this the place that royal artwork comes to die?  While one would not exactly say it is shabby, it’s not very elegant (other than the Morning Room).  Yet it seems too formal for the residents to lounge around in their bathrobes and slippers. We did not get upstairs, however, which is where they probably relax. 

The Garden Room

Prince Charles in his pram at Clarence House, 1950
Royal Collection Trust/© Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2014

Many members of the Royal Family have lived at Clarence House in its nearly 200-year history.  Princess Elizabeth and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, lived here from 1949 until they moved to Buckingham Palace in 1952 when she became Queen.  The Prince of Wales moved back to Clarence House in 2003 with his wife, Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall.

Prince Charles inspired a lovely garden, which seemed to have yielded considerable produce. Gardening and land use are among the Prince’s favorite interests.

 In this view from the entrance,  the adjacent St. James’s Palace is clearly evident.

The View from the Mall
For more information on Clarence House, click here.
For Kristine and me, the visit only whetted our appetites for our visit to Buckingham Palace, coming soon.

LOOSE IN LONDON: HIGHGATE CEMETERY

After our morning at Kenwood, we still had a few particles of energy left…enough for a visit to Highgate Cemetery?  Well, we’d only know if we gave it a try.  So Kristine and Victoria climbed aboard a bus and trusted we’d remembered the right number — and voila!  Soon we were across the Heath and at the cemetery gates.  From here on, this is Victoria’s account. Kristine’s will come in her own inimitable style.

Entrance Gates in Swain’s Lane
We started out wandering in the East part of the cemetery, where individual rambles are allowed.
The paths are lined with memorials of all sizes and shapes.

I wonder if anyone has ever counted all the angels watching over the departed?
As we will see even more below, Mother Nature rules the area.
The draped urns on so many markers represent the soul and the image of grief.

Many kinds of crosses 
We moved slowly, fascinated by the sights, and soon we had to hurry back to the West part of the cemetery for our guided tour, beginning at the Chapel. As you will see below, there is a reason to require guides for this larger part of the cemetery. It would be very easy to get lost!
Victorian Stained Glass in the Chapel

Monuments of all varieties
Highgate Cemetery is maintained and managed by a Friends group which organized to preserve the grounds. Though some of the monuments and graves are maintained by families, many were abandoned long ago.  The Friends group keeps the natural growth under some control without trying to restore the appearance to that of the originals. It is also a wildlife refuge for all sorts of creatures, few of which ventured out while we humans were trudging around.
Areas on both sides of the cemetery are available for current burials, and among the Victorian monuments, you find recent graves here and there.  One of the most famous is below.
Alexander Litvinenko (1962-2006) is widely believed to have been poisoned by Russian agents in London.
Author Beryl Bainbridge, DBE, 1932-2010,
And many old ones…
The tomb of General Sir Loftus Otway, 1775-1854, hero of the Peninsular War
and family members
The Egyptian Avenue,
among the most exotic areas reflecting the Victorian imagination  of the cemetery creators.
Circle of Lebanon
The Family Catacomb of P.W. Talbot of 439 Haverstock Hill
Vault of author Radclyffe Hall 1880-1943 and her partner Mabel Batten
Hall wrote The Well of Loneliness, 1928; admirers keep fresh flowers here always.
This horse is one of the numerous animals adorning gravesites.

Our Guide tells us about the tomb of George Wombwell 1777-1850
known as The Menagerist, owner of a Victorian Traveling circus, 
interred below a statue of his favorite lion, Nero
Highgate was begun as a garden cemetery on the outskirts of London; by the mid-19th century, parish graveyards were running out of space.  In 1836, Parliament established joint-stock companies to build cemeteries. Stephen Geary (1797-1854) headed the group that laid out (so to speak) Highgate, planning to hold 30,000 gravesites

The slope on which Highgate was located had excellent views and clear clean air, contributing to the appeal of the site.

Victorian families acquired lots in the cemetery and sometimes adorned them with statuary before anyone died.  They often visited for picnics or just to admire their property. 
In preparation for this visit, I read Audrey Niffenegger’s interesting novel set at Highgate, Her Fearful Symmetry.  And I re-read Tracy Chevalier’s Falling Angels, also set at a Victorian burial ground. Both novels are fascinating for the subject matter and also for excellent prose styles.
RIP, Mary Nichols, and family. And all the other souls in this amazing place.

ON THE SHELF: AT HOME WITH JANE AUSTEN BY KIM WILSON

At Home With Jane Austen by Kim Wilson, 2014

Victoria here, enjoying the wonderful pictures and copy of this new book by my friend and colleague, Kim Wilson. Don’t expect anything negative in this “review,” because I love everything Kim does unreservedly. I am sure you will agree that all her books — especially this beautiful edition from Abbeville Press — deserve all the praise I can muster.

Kim and Victoria giving a talk at the 2014 Montreal JASNA-AGM

Kim’s lively account of Jane Austen’s life is complemented with wonderful photographs and reproductions of period prints. Many of the pictures were commissioned from Gavin Kingcome, who portrays even the most familiar of views with an artist’s eye.  Other photos are taken by Kim herself.

From the very beginning, you will be charmed by the pictures and prose, perfect for enjoying cover to cover or for dipping into briefly during a comforting tea break.

In the foreword by the curator of of Jane Austen’s House Museum, Chawton, Hampshire, Mary Guyatt writes, “This book cannot fail to encourage your own further exploration…” This is true for a dedicated devotee — like myself — or for a newcomer to Austen’s life and work.

Adlestrop Park, Gloucestershire

Our journey with Jane Austen begins at her childhood home in Steventon, Hampshire, where she lived with her parents and sister Cassandra and her many brothers as well as some boarding students Mr. Austen taught in preparation for college. And we accompany her on the many visits she made in rural villages, sophisticated cities, and stately country mansions. Along the way, we learn about her many friends and relatives through her own words from her letters to her sister Cassandra.

Bath, 1806

On the many travels around England, we also encounter the settings for Austen’s novels, in Bath, Lyme Regis, and London.  And we discover clues about the imagined settings she used, such as the estates of Pemberley and Donwell Abbey.

Chawton Cottage

Gardening, fashion, balls, literature, and the theatre – all pursuits Jane Austen enjoyed – are covered, as well as the personal activities in which she excelled, e.g. playing the piano and writing.

Indulge your Janeite friends, others who need to be initiated into the delights of Austen, and above all yourself — with a gift of this gorgeous volume by Kim Wilson from Abbeville Press: At Home with Jane Austen.

Kim Wilson’s previous titles, still available, are Tea with Jane Austen and In the Garden with Jane Austen.

LOOSE IN LONDON: KRISTINE'S FIRST DAY – PART THREE

Victoria arrives!

In front of the hotel
Victoria here.  You wouldn’t believe the scene I encountered upon entering our room at the Sloane Square Hotel.  Kristine, usually smiling and eager — Kristine, usually dressed attractively and appropriately — Kristine, usually eager to impart all her latest adventures — yes, this Kristine was a faint shadow of herself.  I won’t describe her appearance or her demeanor any further.  You wouldn’t believe it!
Of course I had been in France for two weeks before kissing Hubby goodbye at DeGaulle and flying to Londonwhile he returned home to the US. I was thoroughly accustomed to the time zone. I was ready for our big London fiesta: over three weeks in heaven — exploring, learning, photographing, leading The Duke of Wellington tour, more touring — a perfect storm of delight.
Kristine and I had been looking forward to this first meeting of ours in London, which would signal the beginning of our long anticipated English Idyll. So who was this disheveled half-conscious wraith that faced me now upon my arrival in our cluttered room, already looking like the typhoon had just passed on? Well, never one to coddle — or condescend — I shed my own two, compact travel bags and began to chatter.  “We had a great time in Paris, blah, blah, blah…”
Two eyes made a valiant effort to open wide…and failed.  Slight acknowledgement of my arrival with a nod.
“We went to Malmaison, loved the Rodin Museum, blah, blah, yadda…..why are you sitting there in the window like that? Were you watching for me?”
At last, the wraith sat up and came alive.  “No. I didn’t want to lay on the bed because I’d have fallen asleep and then I’d screw up my sleep pattern. I have to stay awake until bedtime tonight. So, here I am, looking out of the bay window just like Brummell at Whites.”
Well, not exactly, but close enough.  We managed a big hug and, ever so gingerly, Kristine began telling me of her ordeal.  And there was Big Red, all right.  Immense enough to carry supplies for the Siege of Badjos, as well as several boxes of materials for the Wellington Tour. 
Aha!  No wonder Kristine felt like a beast of burden — she had way too much to carry. 
Kristine picks up the tale –
“I need a drink,” I told Victoria.
“I shouldn’t wonder,” she replied. “The state of you!”
“Duke of Wellington pub?”
“Absolutely! As planned. Egad, but we’ve been looking forward to this moment for months now. Our first drink together in London! Almost a month of Wellingtonmerriment ahead of us! Downton Abbey! Copenhagen! The WellingtonTour! Open Houses Weekend! Mudlarking! . . . . . . . why on earth are you wearing those things?”
I’d pulled on my fur topped boots while Victoria was rhapsodizing about the weeks ahead of us. “You’re going to have to trust me on this – they’re the only shoes I can wear right now. Everything else is too painful.”
Victoriablinked. “It’s in the 70’s outside. Those are boots.”
“I know. But they’re all I have at the moment.”
“Yeah, but it’s summer and . . . . . . . “
I grabbed Victoriaby the arm and practically frog marched her to the door, “Let’s go. I’ll tell you all about it once we’re at the pub.”
“Are you really going to wear those in public? They’ve got fur, for God’s sake.”
“I can leave a few minutes after you and meet you at the pub. That way no one will know that you’re with me. And my feet will be under the table once we get there. No one will notice my boots.”
“Don’t be silly.”
“Sorry. I thought you were ashamed to be seen with me.”
“I am ashamed to be seen with you. I said don’t be silly because I can’t go without you. I don’t know where the pub is.”
Thankfully, it was but a short stroll to the Duke ofWellington pub on Ebury Street. It was early enough that the place was nearly deserted. An adorable barman who looked to be about thirteen years old asked us what we’d be having. 

Now a strange thing happened. As you may recall, I had been dreaming of a stiff rum and Coke all day long, but now that we stood before the beer taps, I suddenly wanted nothing more than a cold pint. Unfortunately, the pub had many micro brews and specialty ales. Not a recognizable brand in sight. The infant barman was kind enough to allow Victoria and I to taste a few before we ordered.

In the end, Victoria and both opted for the Oranjeboom which was fabulous. Here’s how it’s described:

‘Quirkily Continental’, Oranjeboom is a Dutch classic and was judged the ‘best draught lager in the world’ at the Brewing Industry International Awards. A delicious, easy-drinking Dutch drop with a hay-like hue and a herbaceous, grassy and fruity fragrance. Citrus notes on the palate speak softly of orange, kiwi and lemongrass buttressed with a hint of caramel sweetness and a gentle, drifting finish.

After our first sips, we took up our glasses and spent a good few minutes examining and photographing all of the Wellington memorabilia ranged around the walls. They even had a copy of one of my favourite Wellington portraits, which I fondly refer to as the Grandpa Artie image.



Finally, we found an empty table and took a load off. Victoria told me about her two weeks in France, whilst I regaled her with tales of my poor feet. And the Royal Hospital.

“I still can’t believe that no on there knows where the painting is hung,” I said, relating the story of my search for the painting entitled The Chelsea Pensioners Reading the Waterloo Despatch.

“Or what the painting is,” Victoria added.

“Yeah. I mean where else would it be but at the Royal Hospital?”

“Come to think of it, I could swear I’ve seen it somewhere before,” Victoria mused.

“At the Royal Hospital?”

“I can’t recall, but somewhere. You know, there were probably a few copies made when it was commissioned by the Duke of Wellington. It was a fairly common practice. There are at least three copies of the Lawrence portrait of Artie.”

“I know. I think I’ve seen the Chelsea Pensioners before, too, come to think of it.”

“Where? You haven’t been to the Royal Hospital before today.”

“Damned if I know.”

“Do you think we saw it when we went to the National Army Museum?” Victoria asked.

I took a sip of beer. “Could be. It seems to me that I saw it someplace in London. Someplace connected to Artie.”

“Where else in London could it be?” Victoria asked. “Horse Guards?”

“Haven’t the foggiest, but I’m going to go back to the Royal Hospital when we get back to London in a few weeks time to see if they find out where it is. This mystery is driving me crazy.”

Eventually, we moved on to discussing other things and ordering dinner, after which I was truly ready for bed. As I fell asleep, I thought about our agenda for the next day – the newly renovated Kenwood House and Highgate Cemetery. Life was good. Even when your feet hurt.

Next installment coming soon!

SWAN UPPING: AN ANNUAL EVENT

Every year the swans on the Thames River are caught, examined, and tagged in an annual census conducted by the Royal Swan Keepers and the Vintners’ and Dyers’ Livery Companies.  The process will begin on Monday, July 14, in Sunbury and end on Friday July 18 at Abingdon, Oxon.

David Barber, The Queen’s Swan Marker, hopes to find an increase in the number of cygnets:
“There have been reports of many successful breeding pairs with larger broods than normal, which is extremely positive news after several years of decreasing cygnet numbers…All cygnets and parent birds are checked for injuries during Swan Upping week and treated accordingly.”

Since the 12th century, the Crown owns all mute swans in the Realm, though the Queen only asserts this right on parts of the Thames. Long ago, swans were a delicacy on the dining table, but they are no longer eaten.

 In 2009, for the first time in centuries, the monarch observed Swan Upping.

Here is the official announcement for 2014.

Download a copy of the Swan Upping educational booklet here

The History of Swan Upping and a video explaining the annual ceremonies is here

More  history of Swan Upping is here.

Victoria here, bringing you some pictures of royal mute swans.  I took these a while ago.

Playing tag with the ducks?
 
 
Way too rude to be royal!
 
The swans in the picture above were gathered at the dock of the Thames Cruise Boats, hoping for a handout.  This Thames Cruise, perhaps complete with swan swarms, will be one of our final activities on the Duke of Wellington Tour, September 4-14, 2014.  Limited space remains and the final day for sign-up will be July 31.  But don’t wait.